Weather setting

Weather setting

Results of the past season

This season, a new greenhouse was built for tomatoes on our site, in which we planted completely new varieties of tomato for us. And it was necessary to build the greenhouse itself, and to build a high ridge in it in the spring. For this reason, we delayed the planting of seedlings, but the ridge justified itself. Fruiting in it lasted until October. The place for the greenhouse was chosen correctly, and the varieties of tomatoes were chosen well. In the greenhouse, many bushes of tasty "beef-tomatoes" grew and bore abundantly. The end result is long-term fruiting and exceptionally tasty, gourmet fruits at the end of the season.

Melons in the open field: the first ridge - from two plants of melons of the variety Serezhkina love we got 66 melons. They turned out to weigh from 0.5 to 1.5 kilograms, the fruiting of the variety lasted until the very frost, but the taste of the fruits, let's say, is not for everybody. On the second street ridge measuring 3.5 x 0.8 meters, we placed four plants. They set up and ripened 82 fruits weighing from 1.5 to 2 kg. Melon bore especially plentifully Roxolana... The quality of the pods of this hybrid turned out to be very high.

Watermelons in the open field. On a ridge measuring 1.2 x 1 meter with a ridge height of 80 centimeters, we grew 16 watermelons on three plants. Especially pleased with the watermelon Gift of the North - the weight of the largest fetus was 10 kg. And the taste of watermelons in the open field turned out to be better than in a greenhouse.

In the greenhouse both watermelons and melons developed well, as they both grew on completely new, vertical ridges constructed for the first time. The area of ​​the ridges was small, but the harvest of fruits harvested from these areas was high. We got 15 fruits from five watermelon plants. The watermelons were quite large - 10 kg and more. For all fruits, special hard shelves were made. The largest watermelon variety Couch potato pulled 18 kilograms! Hybrid fruit Gift to the North was ready for removal in mid-August, and the Lezhebok variety was ripe by the end of the month.

The biggest problem in growing watermelon fruit in a greenhouse was that it was difficult to design the shelves for the fruit. Some of the shelves were made to hang like a swing. And during watering, it happened that we touched this shelf with our head, and then the fruits fell. For this reason, three watermelons fell from a height of 2 meters and split.

Melons in the greenhouse. Basically, the Gerd hybrid was planted in the greenhouse. Developed well, but the problem was the same - falling fruits and breaking the whips. From each melon plant in the greenhouse, 18 fruits were obtained, their average weight turned out to be about 2 kg.

The past year was successful for cucumbers, pumpkins and zucchini. The main thing in success in growing these crops in hot summer is to fulfill the motto: "Do not forget, water!" Of the new products, pumpkins attracted varieties with their beauty and productivity Burgher and Khutoryanka... Last season, butternut pumpkins also bore abundant fruit: we collected 17 fruits from two plants. Flowers on the site this summer also pleased us with friendly and long flowering, but for this we had to spend an unusually long time and effort on watering.

Apple and plum trees gave us a bountiful harvest. But berry crops on our site gave a smaller yield than a year ago. Garden strawberry not only did not please with a large harvest, but its fruiting was short-lived. The lack of harvest of this culture is also due to the fact that our strawberry plantings were very actively attacked by flocks of thrushes. Apparently, this was a consequence of the hot summer, we think that there was less food for birds in the forests.

Our young plants of edible honeysuckle bore fruit very well last summer. The first signal of ripening of its berries was the flocks of the same blackbirds. They were so bold that they were not even afraid of the owners of the garden passing by, apparently, they liked the berry. Of the plant pests, slugs were the most worried about us. One gets the impression that their army is growing every year. The method of dealing with them on our site is manual collection plus the processing of plants with ash.

What is the result of the past horticultural season? For us, it turned out to be successful in terms of harvest, but we admit that the irrigation was thoroughly worn out. If someone of those gardeners who were left without a crop last year wants to know the secrets of high yields on our site, then here we can say this: our method of growing plants is that we try to carefully lay food in the ridges even before planting plants, we mulch the soil during the period of abundant fruiting and take care of the health of plants during the growing season. We do not carry out pest control by chemical methods, as we create healthy land, healthy conditions for growth and fruit setting. We try to avoid disease. If some plant got sick, then this is an "emergency" for us, which means that somewhere we made a mistake in preparing the habitat for it and overlooked something.

Boris and Galina Romanov, multiple winners of our competition, Kolpino

During the growing season, new shoots appear. And so that they do not draw nutritious juices from the main bushes, young growth should be removed. But this should be done correctly. Do not pull out or dig. And you need to cut with pruning shears at the very base.

In order not to worry too much about watering, the soil should be mulched. Ordinary garden weeds will help here. But first, you need to remove the seeds from them, so that later you do not have to weed the raspberry tree. A good mulch is made from sawdust. Clean and environmentally friendly.

1. Treat garden plants with urea before the buds swell, which will shock the garden crops, and at the same time kill pathogens.

To do this, dissolve 500 g of urea in 2 liters of hot water, then bring the total mass to a volume of 10 liters. The composition is sprayed on grapes, shrubs and fruit trees. As a result, the flowers will bloom 7-10 days later.

2. Spray with auxin-based growth stimulant in late autumn. Auxin is a natural hormone that stimulates the growth of shoots, root system, and cambium. As soon as after a cold snap the shoots stop growing, it means that flower buds begin to form in the plant.

Spraying the garden with a growth stimulant at this time will allow in the spring to delay the flowering of fruit crops by about a week.

3. In winter, increase the freezing of the soil in the near-trunk circle, delay the thawing of the root system so that garden shrubs and trees wake up a little later than usual.

To this end, during the first thaw, the snow remaining on the site is collected in the trunk circle, trampled, poured with a large amount of water, then mulched with any organic material, for example, sawdust.

On top of the sawdust, another layer of snow is laid out, compacted. As a result, the earth in the near-trunk circle thaws longer, preventing the kidneys from waking up.

4. In order for the trees on the site to bloom at least 4-5 days later, it is enough to perform one simple action - water the plantings abundantly when the snow begins to thaw. But this can be done if too much precipitation has not fallen in winter, there are no snowdrifts, and the garden is not located in a lowland.

Otherwise, the root system will simply start to rot from the abundance of moisture, then the plantings may die. For early watering, about 50 liters of water is required per plant, which must be cold.

5. Carry out summer pruning of trees and shrubs. Horticultural crops are usually pruned in early spring or late fall. But if this is done in the second half of summer, the budding will last, which will also affect the spring flowering, which will occur with a delay of about a week.

Gardeners who follow new developments are aware of the existence of cryoprotectants that can protect the garden from bad weather, sudden cold snaps. It is enough to spray the plants so that they do not suffer from frost.

The folk calendar advises to start work in the garden

Today, March 18, is the day of the martyr Konon Gradar in the Orthodox calendar. As writes, during his lifetime he was remembered for his great work in the cultivation of vegetable gardens. This date has since ancient times been considered the beginning of work in the garden.

On this day, it is customary to soak vegetable seeds and start digging a vegetable garden and fertilizing the beds. There are even sayings: "If you put manure on Ogorodnik's ridges, you won't sip tears over the stove pot in winter", "Where there is an extra peg of manure, there is an extra bread of bread."

Today it is customary to start work in the garden in any weather, because the harvest depends on it: “At least on the day of Konon Gradar it was winter, start plowing the garden. Just fix it on this day - the garden will certainly be good, and there will be a lot of vegetables. "

Three troubles can be avoided: midges, droughts and worms according to custom. It is necessary to dig three holes in the ground and filling them up saying: "one hole is for sushi, the other is for midges, the third is for worms."

Today you can pay attention to the weather. It is believed that if the weather is sunny on Corona, there will be no hail in summer. Also, from this day, morning frosts become easier. And according to belief, 40 more must pass.

Apple tree care in spring: treatment, whitewashing, pruning, feeding

Immediately after the snow melts, apple trees in the garden need the caring hand of the owner. An experienced summer resident will protect the tree from sunburn in time, heal wounds from winter cracks and bites, cut off diseased branches, feed and treat pests, water, mulch and warm the apple tree from recurrent frosts in time. I will tell you in detail how to properly care for apple trees in spring from my own experience.

Whitewashing an apple tree in spring

March and April are the months when the scorching sun can cause burns to the bark of apple trees, which are not yet accustomed to such a change in weather.

  • In the spring, you can immediately whitewash the trunks of young and adult trees, up to skeletal branches, to prevent burns.
  • In addition, whitewashing in the spring relieves the apple tree from pests lurking in crevices that are about to wake up after hibernation.

How to whiten apple trees in spring?

You can make the whitewash solution yourself or buy a special breathable acrylic paint from a garden store.

The main thing is that the composition for whitewashing (purchased or prepared by yourself) is thick and does not drain from the trunk and skeletal branches

How to whitewash with your own hands:

  • 300 g of lime
  • 2 tbsp stationery glue for adhesive,
  • on the tip of a teaspoon of copper sulfate
  • 2 liters of water.

All this must be stirred with a construction mixer until smooth and whitewashed.

When to whitewash apple trees in spring?

It is advisable to whitewash, knowing about the weather for at least the next 5-6 days: there should be no rain. During this time, the whitewash will stick well to the trunk and will not wash off for sure in the first few rains.

Before starting whitewashing, be sure to inspect the trees:

  • if there is old peeling bark, carefully remove it,
  • treat the place with 1% Bordeaux liquid,
  • only then can it be painted or whitewashed.

Treatment of winter damage to the apple tree in spring

It so happens that after wintering, winter diseases or injuries appear on the apple tree.

Often, in the lower part of the stems, you can see traces of rodent teeth:

  • We treat surface damage with 1% Bordeaux liquid, let it dry and cover it with garden varnish or oil paint.
  • With strong bites, you will have to inoculate with a bridge, planting the shoot from the very bottom, even before the bites, then the moment where they ended. This gives a result, but as a rule, such trees are corny uprooted and replaced with new ones.

Diseases - brown spots on the bark, the bark bursts, literally lags behind the wood like old wallpaper from the wall

  • The bark must be removed, all edges must be cleaned with sandpaper, the exposed part must be treated with 2% Bordeaux liquid, allowed to dry, and then covered with garden varnish or garden paint.
  • Sometimes such injuries are even bandaged, isolating from any external influence.

Apple tree pruning in spring

March and April - before bud break - is a good time to prune apple trees.

  • Remove dry and broken shoots, very thin, diseased, bent to the ground, competing shoots and those that thicken the crown.
  • Each cut must be covered with garden varnish or garden paint.

Do not forget about the rules for pruning:

  • between skeletal branches of the first order, the distance should be from 50 to 60 cm,
  • twigs of the second order, it is desirable to cut out so that there are loops looking in different directions and up.

If the apple tree has grown more than 4 meters, and it is already difficult to harvest the crop:

  • boldly cut off the central conductor, covering the cut with garden pitch.

Usually 3 - 3.5 m is enough.

Apple tree pest control in spring

  • We clean the apple trees with a wooden scraper from the old, starting to flake off the bark.
  • Then we process it with 2% copper sulfate.
  • If you notice single copies of woken up pests, you can also remove them manually.

In April, it is already possible to safely put trapping belts, preferably on a glue basis

Top dressing of apple trees in spring

In March and April, you can carry out a whole series of apple dressings:

  • someone simply lays out a bucket of peat or humus under each tree,
  • someone pours wood ash on a glass, having previously well loosened and watered the soil.

My recipe for the perfect spring food for apple trees:

  • I dissolve nitroammofosk in a bucket of water,
  • I loosen the near-trunk strip and evenly distribute the resulting solution
  • on top I mulch with wood ash with a layer of 2-3 cm.

Nitrogen fertilization of apple trees

On soils where nitrogen deficiency is observed, I can offer organic or mineral nitrogen fertilizers:

  • add 5 buckets of humus, evenly distributing it around the trunk circle,
  • dissolve 400 g of urea in water and pour the solution under each apple tree.

Such top dressing will well enrich the poor soil with nitrogen fertilizers.

Watering apple trees in spring

Do not forget about watering, be guided by the weather outside the window:

  • if it is hot and the moisture evaporated quickly, and the tree on your site is young, then it is advisable to water it once a week, pouring a bucket of water under each apple tree,
  • if the tree is more than 5 years old, moisten the soil at least once every couple of weeks.

After each soil moistening, be sure to mulch the surface layer with humus or wood ash - this will save moisture from rapid evaporation, and it will get to the roots

How to protect an apple tree from return frosts in spring?

In April, when the leaves are already actively blooming, and even buds appear, there is a high risk of damage to the apple tree by recurrent frosts.

  • At this time, you need to monitor the weather forecast.
  • When the temperature drops, in agreement with the neighbors, smoky fires need to be kindled around the site.

They will raise the temperature in the garden by a couple of degrees and save the buds of apple trees that are sensitive to frost.

Ivan Khodorkin, research assistant

Read more articles on our website "Antonov"

Processing the garden with Bordeaux mixture in spring

Spring processing of a Bordeaux garden is an important event for a gardener. Spraying trees before bud break is also called "blue" spraying. This term is named because of the color of the Bordeaux liquid solution. Let's figure out how to properly process the Bordeaux garden, in what concentration to dilute the mixture for blue spring spraying and why to do it.

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