8 mistakes in a fruit garden that rob you of a rich harvest

 8 mistakes in a fruit garden that rob you of a rich harvest

Without labor and care for fruit trees, you will not get a rich harvest. But many summer residents make mistakes in caring for their garden. To avoid them, we will consider typical mistakes and advise on how to do better.

Site features are ignored

When buying a summer house, you don't have to choose a plot, so a garden will be organized on it as it happens. But it is better to analyze it in advance to prevent errors. Any crops can be planted on the plain. And if the site has a slope in the direction of the east or south, then this space will warm up more in spring and summer. Therefore, when planting on a slope, trees that wake up early after winter, there is a risk of early flowering, which will lead to freezing of crops from the spring cold. For example, this applies to apricot. And the moisture-loving trees on such a site will suffer from the summer heat. For example, this applies to a pear. As a result, there may not be a harvest, but keep in mind that the high ground of the land has good trees that are resistant to wind and drought. And below, cultures that are resistant to waterlogging will take root, since moisture collects in this place. In a hollow where cool and humid air is concentrated, it is not worth organizing a garden, but if there is no way out, then you need to carefully choose the trees that can be kept in such conditions. In this case, they will be exposed to low temperatures during flowering and there is a risk of fungal diseases due to high humidity.

Features of the soil are not taken into account

The quality life of a plant depends on its root system, which is formed thanks to the soil. Almost all fruit trees have strong roots, so they need moisture and a healthy environment for nutrition. It will be very difficult to grow a garden on poor sandy and stony, waterlogged, dense clayey or saline soils. Without initial preparation and improvement of such soil, there will be no harvest. Each type of tree prefers a certain location. For example, an apple tree loves black soil, loamy or sandy loam soil. Cherry takes root in light sandy loam soil, and pear - in loam. Plum ripens on loamy soil, which is sufficiently fertilized and moist. Soil acidity is an important indicator for a garden. It should be neutral with a pH of 5.5-7.

No wind protection

In winter, in an open area, where winds blow from all directions, the trees will freeze, since the snow will not linger in this place, but it serves as a natural insulation. And in the summer, crops will dry up from the searing wind. The continuous wind will prevent the bees from pollinating the trees. And seedlings swinging back and forth are difficult to root. Plant windbreak plants on the north and east side of the property to enclose the garden. Saplings must be tied to supports.

Monocultural garden

A garden with one crop is easy to maintain, since all trees can be fed, watered and sprayed at once. But a significant disadvantage is that thorough protection from diseases and pests is required, since they immediately spread to all crops. Therefore, there is a great risk of getting a small harvest.

Selection of unadapted varieties for their locality

It is only necessary to choose varieties that are grown in local nurseries, that is, they are already adapted to your area. After all, seedlings bought in the southern region will not tolerate frost, and in the northern one - winter thaws. Of course, the price may be cheaper, but it is not worth it, as the harvest will be small.

High groundwater table

Before planning a garden, you need to find out the extent of the groundwater table. In tall trees, the root system is deep and goes down more than two meters. If the water table is high, the roots will get wet and rot, and the tree will survive. In this case, no harvest is expected. For stone fruit crops, a water level of 1.5 meters is acceptable, and even less for berry bushes.

Incorrect fit

Thickened planting should not be done, since the trees will not have enough light, air and soil volume for development and fruiting. By planting crops next to each other, their crowns intersect, branches grow upward to receive light, and the bottom is exposed. The garden's yield decreases as the fittest survives. There should be a normal passage between the plants so that they do not interfere with each other. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the size of adult crops. For the correct planting of the tree, you need to prepare a hole and fill it with a loose nutrient substrate. Having planted a seedling in an unprepared hole, the soil will soon shrink. In the southern regions, it is better to plant fruit trees in the fall, and in the northern regions - in the spring. In the south, the seedlings will have time to absorb moisture and thus take root well, and in the north they will adapt to the cold spring.

Lack of pollinating plants

For the maturation of stone fruit trees, it is necessary to plant pollinating plants nearby. There are species that pollinate each other, and sometimes it is necessary to purchase a different variety, or just leave the seedling. Ask the seller if you need to buy several plants at once.


How to draw up a plan for a garden and a vegetable garden? All the secrets of planning a garden plot with your own hands

To make the garden plot beautiful, you need to outline in advance where the buildings and plantings will be. The layout of the garden area and vegetable garden is very important. It depends on how the site will look as a whole and how convenient it will be to use buildings, small architectural forms and landings. The article describes how to draw up a garden plan, taking into account the characteristics of the site.

Garden plot plan for 2 adults and a dog.
  1. Design and proper layout of the garden for planting
  2. The location of the beds for vegetable crops
  3. Vegetable planting scheme, crop rotation, description
  4. On the slope
  5. Small garden 1–2 ares
  6. Small vegetable garden 3-4 ares
  7. Vegetable garden 20 ares in the village
  8. English vegetable garden
  9. A plan of a vegetable garden in the shape of a rectangle
  10. To make it very beautiful
  11. According to Meathlider
  12. With a greenhouse
  13. Layout of tracks at the summer cottage
  14. Layout of flower beds
  15. Orchard layout
  16. Layout of garden trees and shrubs on the site
  17. Rose garden layout
  18. Layout of recreation areas with gazebos
  19. Site planning with features
  20. With a slope
  21. Long and narrow
  22. Square
  23. Garden vertical layout
  24. Do-it-yourself options for planning and arranging a summer cottage with a photo depending on the size
  25. An easy free online 3D program for dummies in Russian, with which you can make a landscape design for a summer cottage with dimensions
  26. conclusions

Common types of planning

Advice: in the overwhelming majority of cases, when designing a standard garden and vegetable garden with their own hands, experts adhere to the proportions according to which residential buildings account for 10% of the territory, 15% are taken by the recreation area and outbuildings, 75% are given to plants.

Despite the apparent variety, the layout of the garden site can be performed in four main ways.

  1. The most common is the straight-line or parallel-perpendicular option. They choose him not because he has some special beauty, but rather because it is easier this way. Plus, this arrangement is subconsciously associated with order.

Important: parallel-perpendicular forms, in terms of landscape design, create the effect of reducing space.
Therefore, in this way, the planning of a garden plot of 10 acres or more can be performed.

A circular option for 6 acres.

  1. The exact opposite would be the circular arrangement. Let's say right away that this is a rather specific method of arranging a summer cottage, and it requires certain knowledge in landscape design. A fruit garden and flower gardens can be entered in this way, but it will be more difficult with a vegetable garden.
  2. The diagonal arrangement can be called universal to some extent. Thus, it can be performed as a layout for a garden plot of 15 acres or more. So is the arrangement on a standard six hundred square meters. The diagonal orientation creates a visual volume and at the same time makes it possible to easily arrange the location of various zones on the site with your own hands.
  3. The fourth option can be safely called creative. There are no definite laws here, as a rule, it is a symbiosis of several types described above. Most often it is used in areas with an incorrect configuration and broken perimeter lines.

Tip: before starting the implementation of your project, you must definitely draw it on paper.
If you have purchased a ready-made plot on which there are already some buildings and plantings that you do not plan to remove, they should be noted first and then based on the resulting picture.


Several mistakes in organizing an orchard - garden and vegetable garden

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A selection of annual and perennial flowers with flowering dates and seed sowing times.

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Is it possible to get a harvest of garden strawberries (strawberries) already in the year of planting?

How to determine the lack of vitamins in the body, and how to fix the situation?

Systematic care is a guarantee of health and lush blooming of your roses. Our rose grower calendar will tell you how to plan a rose care schedule.

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Make sure of this by downloading the latest release.

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Diagrams and tables with accessible and visual material.

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10 helpful tips for growing strong, healthy seedlings.

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If you don't know how to preserve birch sap at home, see our selection of recipes!

See for yourself how many different dishes you can make with potatoes!

We understand what a Bordeaux mixture is and how to properly use it in the garden and vegetable garden.

Tips for grafting trees in your garden in spring.

March is approaching, which means it's time to take care of the safety of the garden - to protect trees and bushes from diseases and pests.

Schemes, photos and videos of spring pruning of garden trees.

Correct pruning of roses in spring is a guarantee of rapid growth and lush flowering of the queen of the flower garden.

Berry bushes are among the first to wake up. So, it is impossible to delay spraying currant bushes in the spring - diseases and pests are not asleep!

Everything you wanted to know about the most famous nitrogen fertilizer.

Simple and intuitive instructions for spring pruning of grapes.

Eat at night and even lose weight? It is possible, we will prove it to you!

Do you think the calendula on the site is just a bright annual? However, this plant can do a lot of benefits!

We understand what a Bordeaux mixture is, what it is used for and how to prepare it correctly.

Everything you need to know about how to properly plant edible honeysuckle on your site.

Natural and pharmaceutical remedies to protect seeds and soil from infections

"Fasco" is a formula of love for plants.

Garden Center Greensad

Garden video school "Shining"

It would seem that not so long ago you rolled up cans of pickled and pickled vegetables in the sweat of your brow, but now you have to think about what to do with your "surplus production".

Chicken broth and fried chicken - what more exotic can you make from familiar meat?

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What to play on cold winter evenings in anticipation of the start of the season?

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We plant an orchard

The fruit garden is located in the most honorable place - sunny, warm, protected from the prevailing winds, with fertile moderately moist soil and deep groundwater, on level ground or on a small southern slope. If your site does not have all the conditions, try to make the most of the possible.

Landing pits

If it is not possible to improve the soil throughout the entire area, then pay special attention to the planting holes. According to the classics, they begin to prepare them in advance, about six months before planting, so that the soil settles. The pit should be spacious, at least 1 × 1 × 1 m for a tree and 0.5 × 0.5 × 0.5 m for shrubs (if this is not possible, then try to make the planting pit as large as possible).


The planting pit should be spacious

It is filled with fertile soil, humus, compost on light soils, it is advisable to add clay, on heavy soils - sand and peat and, if necessary, make drainage. Use ash or ready-made mineral fertilizers, preferably slow-acting. The exact proportion depends on the quality of the soil. A well-filled planting hole will give the tree a supply of nutrients for 10-15 years. Between the fertilizers and the roots of the seedling there should be a layer of earth 15-20 cm thick, because the young roots are very delicate and can "burn out". Then the plant will definitely get used to it and will be grateful for the care.

How to place seedlings

When placing seedlings in the garden, be guided by the dimensions of an adult plant: for example, a tree with a height of 6 m will have approximately the same crown diameter, and the root system will take an even larger volume. Keep in mind the standard distances to buildings, communications, fences. Too dense planting turns the orchard into an impenetrable jungle that does not yield crops.

It is strongly discouraged to plant young trees in place of grubbed trees - try to retreat as far as possible. Not the best neighbors for fruit are conifers (especially a combination of pear and juniper): a difficult fight against their common disease, rust, which has a complex development cycle with the participation of both fruit and conifers, is guaranteed to you.


Leave as much free space as needed for an adult plant

In large orchards, trees are arranged in rows, usually oriented from north to south. In a private garden, this is not always possible, so a possible option is placement in groups of the same species, observing the required distances.Black currants, raspberries, actinidia and black chokeberry are relatively shade-tolerant, but they feel better in full sun, which has a positive effect on both the yield and the decorativeness of plants.

Also remember that pear, honeysuckle and stone fruits need cross-pollination in the garden (or neighbors) there must be plants of the same species, but of a different variety. In sea buckthorn, one male is planted on 5 female plants.

In the online store and nursery of Agroholding POISK there is a large selection of seedlings of stone fruit crops, among which there are self-fertile cultivars and good pollinators that can be planted in a garden where fruit trees are already growing that require cross-pollination. Be sure to pay attention to the information about the principle of pollination in the description of the plant (even if it is not on the seedling's label or in the description on the website, you can always look at the search page of the State Variety Commission and clarify this point by finding the desired variety and clicking on it).

So, for example, the Molodezhnaya cherry is self-fertile, which means that it essentially does not need a pollinator for fruiting. In such "independent" individuals, about 50% of the flowers from their own pollen are fertilized. And there will be a pollinator nearby - there will be more ovaries. By the way, the fruits of this winter-hardy variety are large (up to 4.5 g), maroon, sweet and sour with dense pulp.


Variety 'Molodezhnaya' - self-fertile

For comparison, the medium-ripening varieties 'Shokoladnitsa' and 'Oktava' are partially self-fertile. It is believed that in such cultivars, only 20% of the flowers turn into ovaries during self-pollination, so it is still advisable for them to plant pollinators side by side, and then you will collect cherries in buckets.

But 'Shubinka', for example, is self-fruitless, do not expect a harvest without a partner. It is better to place her relatives in close proximity, not alternating with plantings from other crops, such as apple or pear. An ideal case when at least three different cherries grow nearby.


'Shokoladnitsa' (left) and 'Oktava' (center) are partially self-fertile. 'Shubinka' (right) - self-fertile

Plums, like cherries, will also bear fruit perfectly only if there is a partner - both self-fertile, like 'Early Zarechnaya' and 'Skoroplodnaya', and partially self-fertile, like 'Etude' and 'Volga Beauty'. By the way, this quartet is very successful: fruits of different taste and size, different ripening periods ('Etude' is mid-season, the rest are early).


Partially self-fertile: 1 - 'Zarechnaya early' 2 - 'Early'. Self-infertile: 3 - 'Study' 4 - 'Volga Beauty'

Planting process

Planting a seedling in a prepared hole is a pleasant and easy process. First, a peg for a garter is "planted" (for trees on a dwarf rootstock it is better to leave it for life), and then a seedling is placed. The plant is tied up with a figure of eight (and necessarily - freely), if necessary, a shock-absorbing material is placed under the rope or wire. If there is a label on the seedling, be sure to loosen it. Remember that the tree grows at least 1 cm in thickness per year, and bark injuries are very dangerous. It's a shame to lose him over such trifles.


Tight garter figure eight

Before planting, soak the seedling in water for at least a few hours so that it is saturated with water. Remove the plant from the pot, spread the roots. If they braid the ball too tightly, make several vertical cuts 1-1.5 cm deep to stimulate the formation of new roots.

If necessary, perform sanitary pruning of both the aerial part and the root system. Be sure to adjust the height of the root collar. To do this, it is convenient to throw the board over the edges of the hole and use it as a level, and if you are planting a lot of trees, make a semicircular cut for the trunk in your board, this will greatly speed up the work.


If necessary, carry out sanitary pruning of the root system and the aboveground part

The root collar is the area where the trunk passes into the roots, and the site of grafting into the root collar is located a few centimeters higher. It is categorically impossible to deepen the root collar in trees: there will be underpinning the bark, the plant will develop worse and may die. Taking into account that the soil will surely settle, when planting, the root collar should be slightly higher than the soil level - later it will be possible to fill up more, it is much easier than replanting the plant, and it is better not to disturb trees older than 5 years with this procedure.


The root collar must not be buried.

Compact the soil (easiest to do this with your feet), placing the toe against the stem and the heel outward, top up the soil if necessary. Along the perimeter of the planting pit, make a roller limiting the near-trunk circle for this purpose, even not very good soil is quite suitable, for example, the lower layers of soil removed from the planting pit.

Spill well so that the soil settles (and in rainy weather too). Even a small tree needs several buckets of water. He will like regular watering, especially important during the first year of life in a new place (however, fruit crops are very responsive to any care measures).


Watering is also needed for the soil to settle

Cover the trunk circle to retain moisture and limit weed growth. Rooting stimulants are inexpensive and very useful drugs, but the dosage indicated by the manufacturer should be strictly observed: excess is worse than lack.

The soil between trees, as a rule, is kept under turf - and the grassy vegetation is regularly mown. It is highly desirable to maintain a well-defined near-stem circle, cleared of other plants, for the first 5 years after planting, this will create better conditions for the development of the root system and protect young trees from damage by the lawn mower.


The soil between the trees is covered, and the trunk circle is kept clean


Fruit garden laying

The main types of gardens

There are many types of gardens (Table 1). Fruit plantations are distinguished by species and varietal composition, strength of fruit tree growth, early maturity, longevity, garden design (crown shape, density and tree planting pattern) and intensity level.

According to the species composition, gardens are: 1) pome-bearing, where apple, pear, quince and other pome-tree species are planted separately or in different proportions: 2) stone fruit (cherry, plum, sweet cherry, peach, apricot, etc.) 3) nut-bearing (walnut , hazel, etc.) 4) citrus fruits (tangerine, orange, lemon, etc.). Berry plantations (strawberries, raspberries, currants, etc.) are usually called berry plants.

Basic designs of modern gardens

Tree planting scheme, m

The number of trees per 1 ha, pcs.

Sizes of trees, m

Crown width towards row spacing

Thickened gardens with a rounded or semi-flat crown

Flat-crown palmette gardens

Dense row gardens with a fusiform or bushy crown

Multi-row belt plantations with a fusiform or bushy crown

In recent years, gardens have begun to be distinguished by their varietal composition. There were plantations called spur gardens. These are gardens in which only spur apple varieties are grown.

Depending on the strength of tree growth, gardens are distinguished between vigorous, medium-sized (semi-dwarf) and low-growing (dwarf). The growth force of trees and the size of their crowns depend on the biological characteristics of the breed, variety and, mainly, the rootstock. It is better to judge the strength of the growth of trees by their size in height and width during the period of full fruiting, taking into account the possibilities of limiting the crowns by special methods (pruning, spraying with retardants, etc.). Table 1 shows the parameters of crowns in gardens of various types.

According to early maturity, gardens are late-fruiting, which begin to bear fruit in the sixth-seventh year after planting, medium-fruited (fifth-sixth year) and early-fruiting (third-fourth year). Gardens can be durable and short-lived (short cycle). Long-lasting gardens are used for 25-35 years, short-lived - 15-20 years. There is, as a rule, an inverse proportional relationship between the growth force of trees and their early maturity. The more vigorous the tree is, the later it begins to bear fruit. The early maturity of the garden is also associated with the density of tree planting. The more they are placed on a hectare, the earlier the garden begins to yield. There is also a direct relationship between the early maturity of trees and longevity. The earlier the tree begins to bear fruit, the more fragile the garden is. In intensive fruit growing, preference is given to fast-growing orchards of a short cycle, i.e. short-lived, which give more yield in two cycles than durable in one cycle. In addition, an opportunity is provided to quickly replace old varieties with new, more valuable ones, to lay the garden in another place if necessary, to change the design of the garden.

There are big differences in the design features of laying gardens. Depending on the shape of the crown, density and tree planting scheme, gardens are: 1) thickened (wide-row, ordinary) with a rounded or semi-flat crown 2) palmette (trellis) with a flat crown shape 3) thick-line and 4) multi-row (block) belt plantations with bushy or fusiform crown. (see Table 1). Strong salted, medium-sized and partly low-growing gardens of the first and second groups are widely introduced into production. Thickened-row and multi-row belt plantations of low-growing trees are undergoing scientific and industrial testing.

Quite recently (10-12 years ago), scientists began to develop a fundamentally new type of garden - meadow (mowing). In such a garden, one harvest is obtained in two years. In the first year, annual shoots grow, in the second year they bear fruit. Plants are mowed at a low height from the ground (7-15 cm) together with the harvest in the fall during the removable ripeness of the fruit. The fruits are separated, and the cut plants are crushed and left in the garden as a mulch layer. This work must be performed by a special harvester. From the remaining stumps, one-year-old shoots grow, which bear fruit again the next year. So the two-year crop growing cycle is repeated several times (up to 12-16 years of age).

The meadow garden is usually laid with dwarf rootstocks (M 9, M 26), which are doused and left in a permanent place without transplanting. You can also plant the plantings with eyepieces and annual seedlings. The apple tree is planted very densely according to the scheme 80-90X15-20 cm, 60-70X20-30, 45X30 cm (55-80 thousand plants per 1 ha).

Cultivars are selected that are prone to laying generative buds in the axils of leaves on annual growths. In addition, the laying of lateral buds is stimulated by spraying with retardants (0.2% alar, 0.5-1% tour with a consumption of 1200 liters of solution per 1 hectare of garden). They are sprayed in the year of regrowth of plants in the growth phase at a height of 60-80 cm. In addition to enhancing the differentiation of flower buds, retardants give plants strength and provide resistance to slopes under the weight of the fruit.

In the experiments of British and Soviet scientists on apple varieties Egremont Russet, Lord Lambourne, Winter Banana, Wagner Prize and others, the maximum yield was obtained, reaching 1407-2916 centners per hectare of meadow garden, i.e. 703-1458 q on average for two years.

The main advantage of a meadow garden is that it opens up the prospect of complete mechanization of tree pruning and harvesting. But the establishment of such gardens is still expensive, since a huge amount of planting material is required. A combine has not yet been created and the technology itself has not been worked out. Therefore, meadow gardens are not yet introduced into production, but only tested on small plots in scientific institutions.

Depending on the early maturity, the rate of growth and the size of the yield, as well as the economic efficiency of fruit production, orchards are divided into intensive, high-intensity and super-intensive. Intensive plantings include vigorous and medium-sized thickened gardens with a rounded or semi-flat crown, as well as vigorous palmettes. All low growing gardens as well as medium growing palmettes are high intensity. The group of superintensive orchards includes thickened row and multi-row belt plantations of low-growing fruit trees.

In recent years, low-growing, early-growing orchards have become more widespread, which bear fruit earlier and more abundantly, facilitate the work of harvesting, pruning trees and other work. But such gardens require more favorable soil and climatic conditions and a high level of agricultural technology. Weak trees are obtained by grafting on dwarf rootstocks (M9, M26, etc.), by means of a dwarf insert, as well as grafting low-growing varieties (most often spur) on medium-sized rootstocks (M4, MM102, MM106, etc.). Medium-sized trees are grafted with common varieties and on semi-dwarf rootstocks and low-growing (spur) trees on vigorous rootstocks.

The choice of this or that type of garden depends on the natural conditions of the fruit growing zone and the organizational and economic capabilities of the economy (availability of planting material, moisture supply, etc.).

In addition, there are individual, collective and industrial gardens. It is difficult to imagine a villager without a fruit tree or berry plant in his backyard. Collective gardens are spread around the cities of our country. Here Soviet people rest, educate their children to love nature and hard work, and grow valuable food for themselves.

The main suppliers of fruits in our country are industrial orchards.

Early maturity and estimated yields of seed-bearing breeds in modern gardens of various designs

Early maturity

Average maximum yields during the period of full fruiting, centners per hectare

Longevity of the garden, years

Term of entry into fruiting, year

The value of the first harvests, c / ha

Thickened gardens with a rounded or semi-flat crown


Garden Planning - How to Plan a Vegetable Garden

A good plan is the first step to creating a flourishing home garden. Planning includes choosing a place for the garden, determining the size of the garden, determining the types and varieties of vegetables to plant and planning where, when and how much of each vegetable to plant in the garden.

Site selection

  • Choose a location with loose, rich, level and well-drained soil.
  • Do not choose low places where there is water or the soil remains moist. Vegetables will not grow in poorly drained areas.
  • Do not plant where weeds do not grow, vegetables will not grow well there either.
  • Vegetables need sunlight to grow well. Do not plant where buildings, trees, or bushes will shade the garden. Most vegetables require at least 6 hours of sunlight a day.
  • Do not plant vegetables under large tree branches or near bushes, as they deprive vegetables of food and water.
  • If possible, plant a garden next to a plumbing. In many areas, a garden can grow without watering, but it is more likely to be successful when irrigated. Water is especially needed during long dry periods or when planting seeds.
  • Few have the perfect garden spot, so look for the best spot possible.

Figure 1: A successful garden starts with good design.

Garden size

A garden that is too large is one of the most common mistakes that keen beginner gardeners make. A garden that is too large will take a lot of work. Consider the following factors when determining the size of your garden:

  • Free place. For the residents of the apartment, the garden can be a box for flowers. However, in the suburbs or in the countryside, there may be enough space for a garden.
  • Free time. If you only garden after work or school, or on weekends, you may not have enough time to care for a large garden.
  • Family size. If gardening is a family activity, you can take care of a large space. A large family can also use more vegetables.
  • The reason for gardening. If the garden is purely for relaxation, the container or flower garden may be large enough. If you want to grow vegetables for canning or freezing, you will need a large area.
  • Types of vegetables grown. Some vegetables take up a lot of space. Most require at least 3 feet between rows. If you want to plant ten rows of vegetables, the garden needs to be 30 feet wide.

Deciding what to grow

What to grow in the garden is just as important as where to place it. Consider the following points when choosing vegetables:

Free place. Do not plant watermelons in a small garden. They take up too much space. Other grape crops, such as cucumbers and melons, can be grown in small gardens with trellises on a fence or other structure.

Expected production from the harvest. The smaller the garden, the more important it is to get high yields from each row. Small, fast-maturing crops such as radishes, turnips and beets yield fast crops and do not require much space. Tomatoes, beans, zucchini and peppers need more space, but they produce crops over a long season.

The cost of vegetables when buying. Plant expensive vegetables at the grocery store. Broccoli is usually one of the most expensive vegetables to grow in most home gardens.

Nutritional value of vegetables. All vegetables are good, but some are more nutritious than others. Grow different types of vegetables to diversify your diet.

Personal preferences. This is especially important if the garden is purely for relaxation or personal enjoyment. Grow vegetables your family loves to eat.

The location of vegetables in the garden

Arrange vegetables to make the most of space and light. Group tall vegetables like okra, corn, and tomatoes on the north side of the garden so they don't obscure shorter vegetables like beans. Also group vegetables by ripeness. This makes replanting easier after removing early crops such as lettuce or beets (Figure 2).

Fig. 2. Plant tall vegetables where they will not obscure shorter plants.

Plant small, fast-ripening vegetables between larger ones. Plant your vines near a fence or trellis if possible.

Draw a drawing on paper to show the location of vegetables in the garden and the distance between them (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Guide to planting a garden.

Landing time

Vegetables are divided into two main groups - the warm season and the cool season. Cold season crops can withstand lower temperatures, plant them before the soil warms up in the spring, or they can be planted in late summer for harvest after the first frost in the fall.

Warm season crops do not tolerate frost and do not grow in cool soil temperatures. Plant them in the spring after the last frost and early enough to ripen before the frost in the fall.

Temperature classification of some vegetables

How much to plant

Some vegetables produce more than others, so fewer plants are needed. The number of seedlings depends on the size of the family, the expected harvest, and whether you plan on freezing or canning. Do not plant too much. Over-seating is wasteful and requires too much work.

Plant amount per person

Download the printable version of this page: Garden planning

Do you have questions or need to contact a specialist?


Watch the video: 5 Tips for Growing an Amazing Fruit Tree at Home