A resident of tropical regions and the owner of bright leaves - Cordilina, has adapted well to the climate of our apartments. The plant is very ornate and is often used for landscaping and decorating living spaces. Cordilina looks great as a single plant or in flower arrangements. But only well-groomed plants have an attractive appearance. Therefore, before taking a flower, you should familiarize yourself with the rules for caring for it at home.
Description of the appearance and origin of cordilina
The proudly sounding name of Cordilina, in fact, is translated from Greek in a very prosaic way - knot. But the plant itself looks very elegant thanks to the lush brightly colored leaves.
Cordilina can be found in nature in both hemispheres. But to be more precise, it is only in tropical and subtropical climatic zones. Asia, Australia, New Zealand and Brazil - in these countries, cordilina grows in the form of spreading trees, reaching large heights - up to 15 m.
Cordilina, a tropical dweller, is found in both hemispheres
Cordilina is referred to as false palms and is often confused with dracaena. And although these 2 plants are very close to each other, there are differences.
- Cordilina leaves have a petiole, which is absent in dracaena.
- The structure of the roots is also different. The root system of the cordilina is covered with knots and swellings (which is why the plant got its name); they are white on the cut. Dracaena has straight roots, and the cut is yellow or orange.
- And perhaps the main difference is the number of seeds. Cordilina has 4 to 20 seeds per fruit. Dracaena has only one.
Dracaena and cordilina are close relatives
In indoor floriculture, cordilina is a bushy plant that grows up to a meter in height. Of course, cordilina is rather big, so it needs enough space. In a greenhouse, it can easily overcome the 1.5 meter bar.
The leaves of the plant differ in both size and color. Depending on the species, the leaf plate is of a narrow linear shape, broad-lanceolate or saber-shaped. The length varies from a few centimeters to a meter. The edge of the sheet can be absolutely smooth or have fine serrations. The main background of the leaf is green. And then nature begins to fantasize, applying stripes and strokes of yellow, red, pink and purple on the surface. White looks very elegant.
The bright leaves of the cordilina are the main decoration of the plant, but their shape and color depend on the species and variety.
The plant blooms very interestingly. Inflorescences are large and dense panicles, the length of which can be up to 1 m. The small flowers are creamy white, red or purple. In home floriculture, cordilina is grown as an ornamental deciduous plant, because it practically does not bloom in the room.
In nature, cordilina blooms at the age of 8-11 years.
Long ago, James Cook called the cordilina the cabbage tree. It turns out that the local population actively used the young leaves of the plant for food. Mats, rugs, and brushes are made from old fibrous leaves.
Cordilina is considered a rather unpretentious green pet. People who just think about growing flowers may well purchase this plant in order to comprehend the basics of indoor floriculture with its help. Kordilina will easily forgive some flaws and shortcomings that were accidentally made, but quickly eliminated. But if you forget about the flower for a long time, it can die.
It is not difficult to grow cordilina, the main thing is not to forget about it for a long time
Types and varieties
There are more than 15 types of cordilin in nature, but not all of them are suitable for growing at home. Breeders, on the basis of the fittest, have bred a sufficient number of varieties that get along well in the microclimate of an ordinary apartment.
Varieties common in indoor floriculture - table
Magnificent species and varieties of cordilina in the photo
By maintaining certain conditions, you will help the plant adapt to the atmosphere of the room and show itself in all its glory.
An unpretentious plant is Tradescantia. You can learn about the rules of caring for her from the material: https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/tradeskantsiya-uhod-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
How to grow at home, depending on the season - table
In the summer, cordilina needs to be taken out into the air and sprayed more often
Is it possible to grow cordilina in a florarium?
Of course you can, since cordilina perfectly tolerates humid air. But the size of the vessel should be rather big. For a traditional garden in a bottle, the plant will not work, but in an open aquarium or in a showcase-type florarium, cordilina will perfectly coexist with other plants.
Cordilina is a very friendly neighbor, so it is often used in florariums.
Planting and transplanting
For young plants, transplanting should be done every year. Adult plants do not have a high growth rate, therefore, they are transplanted as the roots master the space of the pot. This usually happens 3 years after planting. The procedure is carried out only in spring, in March - April.
Cordilina is often grown as a tub plant, which makes transplanting very difficult. In this case, every spring you need to change the top layer of the earth to a fresh one. It is also necessary to loosen the soil periodically so that the roots are supplied with oxygen.
The soil for cordilina should be loose and nutritious. Purchased universal soil with a slightly acidic reaction is quite suitable. You can start preparing the soil mixture yourself. To do this, you need to combine and mix well the following ingredients, taken in equal amounts:
- leafy land;
- coarse sand.
Add brick chips and pieces of charcoal to the finished mixture. These components will help to avoid acidification of the soil and give it more looseness.
The pot is chosen based on the size of the cordilina. For large specimens, stable clay containers are suitable, for smaller plants, plastic pots. Drainage holes are required! The size of the pot should be larger than the previous one, given the fact that an adult plant rarely needs replanting. But do not think that too large a new container is good, it is not. To master a large pot of cordiline will be to the detriment of the leaves. And the liquid will often stagnate in the roots, which should not be allowed.
Clay pot suitable for planting large specimens
Step by step transplanting a flower into new soil
- Pour drainage and prepared soil mixture into the prepared pot.
- We carefully remove the cordilina from the pot, lightly shake off the old earth. It is not necessary to forcibly rid the roots of the soil.
Forcibly shaking off the soil from the roots of the cordilina is not worth it
- We install the flower in a new pot, add the substrate on the sides and lightly tamp it.
- We water, wait for the water to completely saturate the soil and drain the leaked liquid from the pan.
- We put the cordilina on diffused bright light.
If you bought cordilina from a store and want to transplant, give it a week and a half to acclimatize. After that, transfer it to a new pot, filling the formed voids on the sides of the container with a nutrient substrate. And next spring, you can do a full-fledged transplant with a replacement substrate.
Do I need a support for the cordiline
Usually cordilina does not need support, since it has a very strong stem. But if, for some reason, the plant has a very thin stem, and besides, it is bare, then it is quite acceptable to tie it to a support. It can be a simple bamboo stick.
The cordilina has a stable stem and does not need support
No matter how unpretentious the cordilina is, it needs to be provided with proper care.
How to water and feed
Spring and summer watering of cordilina is abundant, the land should be in a slightly damp (but not waterlogged) state. Water must not stagnate in the sump. Before the next moistening, the top layer of the soil mixture should dry out 3 cm deep. An approximate watering schedule during this period is 2 - 3 times a week. But it is worth making a correction, taking into account the temperature and humidity level of the air. In addition, the shape of the cordilina leaf must be taken into account. Species with a wide leaf need more frequent watering, as they evaporate moisture faster than narrow-leaved ones.
In winter, cordilina is watered less often - about 1 time per week. If the plant hibernates in cool conditions, the control of soil moisture must be kept under strict control.
Cordilina is fed all year round. Only the frequency of fertilization changes. In the period from April to September, when active growth occurs, the flower is fertilized 3-4 times a month. From October to March, the plant is fed once a month. As a fertilizer, universal dressings are used for decorative deciduous, preferably in liquid form.
Receiving enough moisture and nutrition, cordilina pleases with bright colors
How to care during flowering
Cordilina blooms only in nature. This happens at the age of 8 - 11 years. Flowers adapted for home cultivation do this extremely rarely, and then only in a botanical garden or a greenhouse, if comfortable conditions close to natural are created.
At home, the flowering of cordilina occurs very rarely.
In order for Cordilina to accumulate strength for active growth in the new season, she needs peace. An exotic plant rests in the autumn-winter period, and you should not disturb it at this time. The air temperature drops, the frequency of watering is reduced, but occasionally you need to feed.
The content should be light, but the cordiline does not need special lighting.
The resting period of the cordilina takes place in a cool and bright place.
Does the cordiline need pruning or pinching
As such, both Cordilina procedures are unnecessary. After all, the plant grows slowly and does not branch. But to maintain an attractive appearance, you need to remove the dried lower leaves with sharp scissors. And for an old plant, pruning is a way of rejuvenation and an opportunity to get a new plant by rooting the top.
Care errors and what to do to fix them
It often happens that, out of ignorance, a novice florist makes mistakes that lead to the loss of the plant's attractiveness. If cordilina looks dull or its leaves are covered with spots, this is a signal that you are doing something wrong.
Why does the flower dry or turn yellow leaves, the plant has faded and other reasons + how to fix: table
How cordilina signals care errors - photo gallery
Diseases and pests
Cordilina refers to plants that are resistant to various diseases and pests. Perhaps the most terrible disease for any plant is root rot. The flower grower, trying to cheer up the drooping flower, begins to water it abundantly with water, which ultimately leads to a sad end - the plant dies. A symptom identified in time will help to quickly cope with the problem.
Diseases and pests: learning to identify in time - photo gallery
Breeding methods for cordilina
Cordilina reproduces in 4 ways, 3 of which - rooting of the apical or stem cuttings, root suckers and air layers, are not particularly difficult. Seed propagation is not very popular, but for fun, you can try it too.
Usually this method is applied to old plants that require rejuvenation.
- An apical or woody stem cutting 7 - 9 cm long will do. It must have 1 or more deciduous nodes.
The apical stalk of the cordilina must have internodes
- Rooting is carried out in wet sand or a mixture of peat and sand.
The stem cutting can be rooted in this way.
- To make the process successful, the container with the cuttings is covered with a bag to form a microclimate inside the greenhouse.
- Rooting temperature is not lower than 25 ° С.
- It is simple to take care of the cuttings - the greenhouse is periodically ventilated and the soil mixture is moistened.
- After a month, the roots appear and the cuttings are ready for transplanting into separate pots. The soil mixture is needed as for a normal planting.
Rooted apical cuttings of cordilina
In addition, the apical cuttings root easily in water. The fluid will have to be changed several times during the entire process so that it does not turn green and moldy.
Cordilina stalk can be easily rooted in water
Rooting of root suckers
This method is considered one of the easiest. It is combined with the transplantation process and is carried out in the spring.
- The cordilina is removed from the pot and the root suckers are separated using a sharpened knife.
Root offspring are separated from the mother plant
- Each part is planted in a prepared pot filled with soil mixture for rooting cuttings.
- After the children acquire their own root system and release the first leaves, they are transplanted into a substrate for adult plants.
Air layers (roots)
If the lower part of the trunk is bare of the cordilina and it has lost its decorative effect, then the top can be rooted using the following method.
- At the border where the leaves end and the woody bare trunk begins, select an internode area for root growth.
- With a sharp knife, several shallow oblique cuts 2 - 3 cm long are made in the selected area, going from top to bottom.
- Slightly pushing the edges of the incisions, a root formation stimulator, for example, Kornevin, is applied to the exposed tissue with a brush.
- To prevent the tissue from growing together, you need to insert a piece of a match into the incision.
- Now you need to fix the film, rolled up to a ring around the barrel, a few centimeters below the cuts.
- The resulting space is filled with sphagnum moss and moistened.
- After that, the upper part of the film is fixed over the cuts.
Such a device will help to grow roots without separating the top from the stem.
- With periodic moistening, a root system is formed after 1.5 or 2 months.
- Wait until it develops enough and cut the trunk at the roots.
- Plant the plant in a separate pot.
- If the cordiline lacks stability, you can fix the support next to it. When the root system has mastered most of the pot, the support can be removed.
This method is rarely used. Seeds are generally accepted to propagate only the original species of cordilina.
Cordilina fruits do not last long on the plant, they are pecked by birds
- In February or early March, fresh seeds are sown in a mixture of turf and sand. For better germination, they are soaked in Epin or Zircon.
- Seed germination is uneven. The first shoots may appear in a month, the last in 3.
- To maintain a constant temperature of 25 - 27 ° C, build a greenhouse, you can use the bottom heating.
- When the seedlings grow up to 5 cm, they are transplanted into separate pots with a diameter of 7 cm.
- Further cultivation takes place at a temperature of 21 - 24 ° C.
Reviews about the cultivation of cordilina
Cordilina is becoming a favorite among flower growers and is increasingly appearing on sale. Compact or tall plants decorate our apartments and delight the eye at work. A wide variety of varieties with brightly colored leaves will help revitalize even the most boring corner of the room. And the unpretentiousness of the plant will not cause much trouble.
Good day! My name is Irina. I live in a wonderful place - Crimea. Educator by education. I love nature and animals very much. I have been fond of floriculture for a long time, but I have just begun to master garden wisdom. My motto is live, learn.
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Cordilina: rules for caring for a plant at home
Cordilina is one of the most popular indoor plants from which a tree like a palm tree is grown. However, compared to the real one, the false palm is less whimsical: it grows more actively, it is easier to care for it, and reproduction, with rare exceptions, is always successful. At the same time, a cordilina with a bunch of leaves raised high on the crown looks just as impressive. A healthy plant may well become a long-liver. But for this you need to know some of the intricacies of home care.
Varieties and types
Marginata Magenta (Bordered)
Marginata Magenta (Bordered)
In its natural habitat, the plant grows up to 6 m, in domestic ones - up to 3 m. The edge of the leaf blades is bordered by a thin strip. If the leaves of the plant are light in color, the color of the border is reddish or yellow, if the leaf plates are dark, the border is burgundy. The trunk of the plant is tree-like, scars are formed on it, the field of leaf fall.
- Мarginata Сolorama - green and red leaves
- Мarginata Tricolor - dark green leaves, red edging
- Мarginata Bicolor - leaf blades are light green, red and white.
Fragrant, Fragrans (D. Fragrans)
Fragrant, Fragrans (D. Fragrans)
In nature, it grows up to 6 m (the length of the peduncle is 1 m), at home it reaches 1.5-2 m. It forms curved, glossy, saturated-colored leaves. In its natural habitat, the plant blooms, forming a large number of pale green flowers that smell good.
- Surprise - it reaches 40 cm in height, the width of the leaf blade is 1.5 cm, the length is 25 cm, the color is green-yellow, a longitudinal line runs in the center. Leaf shape elliptical, elongated, curved edges
- Golden Coast - the trunk of the plant is lignified, the leaf plates are bright green, the edging is yellow, the length of the leaf plate is 20 cm, the width is up to 12 cm. Demanding to high humidity and temperature (air temperature should be more than 22 degrees)
- Lemon Lime - light green leaves, dark green longitudinal stripe. The leaf plate is bordered by a narrow white stripe
- Yellow Coast - the stem of a young plant is covered with a variegated green crown, as the plant matures, the trunk becomes bare, the leaf plates gather in a bunch.
The shape of the stem and leaves is similar to that of bamboo. It can grow up to 1 m in height, the length of the leaf blades (dense and glossy) can be 20-25 cm, and the width is about 3 cm.The color of the leaves is light, light green, but there are varieties with light or dark stripes and a border.
It grows slowly, reaches a height of 1.4 m. The leaf blades of plants of this variety are tricolor, their edge curls, the length is up to 50 cm. The adaptation period passes well, it grows densely.
Such plants were bred by crossing different types of dracaena. The leaves can be wide and narrow, the shade is from brown to yellow.
The leaf plates are dark green, glossy, even, elongated lanceolate. Grooves run along the sheet. In an adult plant, the leaf length can reach 100 cm.
Representative of the Dracaenovs. Forms a fleshy root system that is white in section. While developing, it gives young shoots. The crown is dense, the leaves are lanceolate, have petioles.