What is barking in the lawn?

What is barking in the lawn?

My lawn is ruined. What animal is it?

Response: It would surprise me a lot if it is not a badger that has been on its nocturnal round, looking for ollonborr larvae and other goodies in the lawn. In many residential areas, resident badgers are common. They are distinct nocturnal animals so they are rarely seen. The tracks they leave behind, in addition to swollen lawns, are pits where they lay their droppings, the pits are open and are often used several times.

Since the lawn is often used for walking, running, playing or sitting on, the ground is packed at all times and there is a risk that the grass roots will lack oxygen. When the grass loses strength, weeds and moss get an easier attachment. A simple trick to aerate the ground is to each spring stick a grip between 5 and 10 centimeters deep evenly over the entire lawn.

If the soil layer has become really compact and uneven, a vertical cut may be suitable. Machine rental companies usually provide vertical cutters. Do this as soon as the grass begins to green. Supportive if you get bare plates.

5 tips when sowing new lawn

Is summer 2020 the time to fulfill your dream of a dense and lush lawn? Here, grass fanatic David Krifors gives his best tips on what to think about when sowing fresh lawn.

Examine the basis for any soil improvement

Start by examining what soil / substrate you have and, if necessary, improve the soil before sowing. If you want to be really careful, I recommend that you take a soil sample and send it to companies that analyze this, where you will find out, among other things, what pH value you have in the soil. Grass thrives best in neutral to slightly alkaline soil.

If the soil / ground is rock hard, you may need to loosen it with, for example, a cultivator or perforated aerator. A rock-hard soil makes it difficult for the grass roots to reach the depths. The drainage is also poor and you can get puddles on the lawn when it rains. Feel free to add sand to make the soil more airy and water-permeable.

Choose grass type after use

Remember to choose grass types according to what you want the lawn for. For example, should you play and run a lot on the lawn or more have it as an ornament? Most people want to be able to walk and move on their lawns and that it should not grow so fast but at the same time become dense. Then choose a product that contains a mixture of different grass seeds such as red fescue and ryegrass. Granngården's grass seed Slottspark is one such product.

If, on the other hand, you want the lawn to start early in the season, it may be more advantageous to choose a fast-growing grass mixture, for example Granngårdens Villafröjd. These varieties are even more suitable for play and running. Just keep in mind that a fast-growing grass requires more frequent mowing.

If you are going to build a lawn at the summer cottage where you do not have the opportunity to mow often, it may be better to choose a grass that can handle higher lengths, for example Granngårdens Gårdsidyll.

Sow the lawn on a flat surface

It is important that you have a well-flattened surface when you sow a lawn. Otherwise there will be easy pits in the lawn when you will then walk on it. With a new construction, it is therefore an excellent opportunity to get the surface smooth. This is most easily done with sand that does not clump. The sand also provides good drainage properties for water to reach down to the roots. Fill in sand where irregularities are visible with the help of straight razors or similar tools.

Add soil and plate after sowing

The grass seeds, on the other hand, need soil to be able to germinate, so above sand or topsoil you sow the grass seeds as described. Then apply a thin layer of soil, such as dress soil. The process can also be done in reverse, ie first soil above sand. You then need to mulch the seeds with a rake so that they make contact with the ground. The seed should then be flattened with a grid roller or manually by gently flattening with the feet.

Water a little and often

Water the seed often and with a little water instead of much and infrequently.

Good luck with your newly sown lawn! Here you will find more grass tips from me. / David

Follow David on instagram

Grass fanatic, grass enthusiast and lawn nerd. David Krifors works as a physiotherapist in Västerås and has the lawn as his biggest hobby. He has the neighborhood's greenest lawn and enjoys the feeling of putting his feet on lush grass. Follow David on instagram @davidsgras for more grass inspiration, tips and advice.

Mushrooms in the lawn

I have a couple of questions but I first wanted to describe my problem.

I am a first time house owner and do not have so green fingers. We decided to redo our little plate at the back of the house completely, so now we have laid out a new lawn on a roll a little more than a month ago. In the beginning we watered it every morning and evening and we did not set foot on it for three weeks. Then I cut it down very little! Kind of a third for what I had heard was best.

But then all of a sudden about a week and a half ago, small mushrooms appeared here and there! So we ran to Skåne plants and asked what we should do? They agreed to test with Algomin so that the pH value would correct itself. First I cut the grass quite hard because a neighbor told me to keep the grass short because it is good! To my dismay, the grass did not feel good at all in the bottom because it was really yellow and well spotted now. So I sprinkled some Algomin and hoped for the best that it would recover and that the fungi would disappear.

Now, unfortunately, it has not really recovered everywhere and it looks like it has died in some places and that only one kind of grass has survived. Plus on top of that, the mushrooms have started to come up again.

How do I get my plump nice lawn back? Should I try so little new grass in the lawn? And how do I do this in the best way?

How often can I use Algomin? Every four weeks or?

How do you mow your lawn best? How much and how often?

Can you water your lawn? And how often should you water?

Can I use the lawn just after sowing in some new grass?

Should you leave the grass that you cut away for a day as nourishment?

Then I have a little question for:

Thought to make a grass joint where I have laid paving stones, because I have a fairly wide joint.

How do I best do this?

PS. Sends with a picture. And if you can see in the picture if there are several types of grass or not? That would have been very grateful!

There were many questions at once. Never ask your neighbor for advice if you do not know he / she is knowledgeable.

The fungus probably comes from the soil under the grass. Algomin was the right answer. Algomin raises the pH value and changes the soil chemistry for the better. The fungi then disappear. They can also be controlled with Binab T which is an antagonist fungus. Available for purchase in a well-stocked garden store.

It seems like your lawn has got a little too much water. Make sure that your grass has grown firmly into the ground. It has done so if the moisture has come down to the depths. If it is wet, do not water. If it is dry under the grass, you must water. You water really and rarely. You can fertilize with Algomin Gräsgödsel. Fertilize, as you said, every four weeks and then use half the dose. Never mow more than a third of the height of the lawn and never below 3-5 cm, for a normal lawn. Use a collector if you do not have clippings or rake up the grass.

Wait to sow in new grass. I think it will start again. It would be good to know what the earth looks like under your grass. Depth? Type of soil? Basic fertilization?

For grass joints, you can use short-grown grass or joint grass as it is called. It contains sheep fescue. Drought resistant and good.

Hope you get your lawn in order.

Chop and drop - how we compost in the garden.

Chop and drop. We have a garden of 550 sqm. 550 sqm may not be that much but to be a townhouse garden it is large. Our plot also borders a park where we have three large lindens in the plot boundary. Our plot and these wraps produce a lot of material. This material is gold for us.

We are backing the band to 2015 when we moved in. Our plot consists of heavy and dry clay soil. Our flower beds had dry cracks and the soil did not feel well. The soil did not contain much life and could not let through or retain moisture. As the gardener I am interested in gardening, I began to think about how I would solve this.

To start composting all the material and spreading it out would take too long and require too much work with carrying, building compost and such. Add to that that we do not have a good place to have a compost in the garden. I needed a simple, cheap (preferably free) and time-saving method to bring the earth back to life and solve the problem with all the material that the garden and the lindens produce.

After a lot of googling, the choice fell on "Chop and drop". You can say that you combine compost and cover cultivation by simply putting the material (leaves, sticks, grass clippings) in the flower beds and where the soil needs to be improved. The benefits are many but I will get to that soon.

Chop and drop - How to do it?

I actually have two tracks.

Improve an existing discount / cultivation.

Our garden had a wide flowerbed around most of the plot. The soil was miserable, weeds grew and the plants did not feel peachy if you say so. I simply started building a layer of organic material in the flower beds between the plants. I used leaves, sticks (cut into smaller pieces), grass clippings, coffee grounds, eggshells and more. Everything except the plants was covered.

What happened was that a natural decomposition process started. Lots of people moved in who started processing this covered with organic material. The weeds under the cover died, the soil became more and more loose, the soil did not dry out as fast and the plants seemed to feel better.

Establish a new discount / cultivation.

More and more of our lawn is becoming new flower beds, deep beds and more. The easiest way to start a new flower bed in this heavy clay soil is to cover it with organic material. I also usually collect magazines that I use as layer number one to suffocate the lawn and other things that are underneath. On top comes the blanket of organic material that I mentioned earlier. This is done with advantage in the autumn and in the spring the soil has fixed itself quite well.
I have also, with good results, done as above but made holes in the cover, dug a hole, and bottomed with good soil and planted what I had in mind. It also works well.

Benefits of chop and drop composting?

The benefits of this are, in my opinion, many. The result is good, watering flowerbeds is only needed in exceptional cases, it saves time, I have hardly any weeds to clear, I do not have to transport materials to the garden barrel or compost, I do not have to give so much nutrition (even if I support some plants and everything edible), it's nice with this quilt, I do not have to see bare soil and that it has moved a hedgehog into the garden which is very happy to roam around in the flower beds. We also have lots of blackbirds now that roam around in the cover of organic material.

Disadvantages of chop and drop composting?

Disadvantages then? It is said that the number of snails should be able to increase. I have not noticed it at all but logically it does not sound unlikely. Some are also afraid of spreading the infection. There also does not seem to be any danger in my garden or for others who do this. Another thing that could be a problem is that you spread weeds because it is part of the cover.

The latter I thought I would develop and tell you how I do to avoid it. Root weeds such as turnips, dandelions and other things I first put on a stone so that they can dry out and die before they are added to the flower beds. Other weeds that obviously bear seeds I throw in the garden barrel.

Video: Ailo barking at the lawn mower.