Hydrangea. I planted a cutting tree hydrangea and could not wait for flowering for several years. The shoots that grew over the summer did not have time to ripen and froze over the winter, and the next year they grew back again.
To make the branches lignified, I cut off all the leaves in September, bent the stems to the ground while they were flexible, and covered them for the winter at the end of October. Now I have a nice bush with lignified branches, it blooms and hibernates without shelter.
Spirea macrophile... The stems of this type of spirea can freeze over the winter. In the fall, I bend and tie them down, throw on top of an old jacket, a film and press everything in arcs.
Grapes. Several years ago I bought a bush of grapes, about which the seller said that it hibernates without shelter. I planted him. In the spring, the bush blossomed very late, and during the winter all the grown and unripe shoots froze. And so it was for several years, there was no question of the harvest. Now I I cover him for the winter.
In early October, I cut off all the leaves from the shoots, remove the harvest remnants, cut off the unripe shoots not according to the rules described in the books, but leave a large supply of them in order to cut off the frozen part of the vine in early spring.
I twist the vine on the ground in a ring, tie it up and press it with bricks to the ground so that it does not bristle. In wet weather, I cover it with a film, and in dry weather I remove the film so that the vine dries up and becomes woody. At the end of October, in dry weather, I spread pieces of film under the vine on the ground so that moisture does not moisten the vine from below, I throw old jackets and coats on top of the ring.
After that, I put a large piece of thick film on top of everything, tuck it together with the jackets under the vine so that moisture does not get inside the shelter, then I press it with bricks from above so that it does not blow away by the wind.
Raspberries. In the spring I acquired several varieties of remontant raspberries... According to the new cultivation technology, remontant raspberries need to be cut off all for the winter, and the newly grown stems will bear fruit next year. I decided not to cut the branches for the first year, let a strong root system grow. Back in September, I bent down the green flexible branches and tied them, cut off the leaves, added peat, put arcs, covered them with dense spunbond and left them for the winter. If you do not cut off the leaves for the winter, then the buds under the shelter can vanish.
Nina Krykova, gardener
How to cover roses for the winter. How to cover roses
With the advent of cold weather, many novice rose growers have the question of sheltering roses for the winter, how to protect roses from frost, how to cover them and when it is necessary to do this.
When to shelter roses for the winter
When to cover roses for the winter and is it really necessary? It all depends on the variety of plants and weather conditions. Not all species need shelter for the winter, there are cold-resistant varieties, they do not care about severe frosts. But if in your region there are severe frosts and you are worried about whether your flowers will be able to overwinter, then of course it is better to play it safe and make a shelter for roses that protects from winds, precipitation and frost.
If the roses are covered too early, the plants will start to rot and die. Rose bushes are covered when the temperature is stable at -5-8 degrees. Slightly low temperatures will not harm the roses; a slight drop will even harden them.
Shelter roses, which is the safest way
The most reliable shelter for roses is an air-dry method, when an air gap is created between the plant and the frame. The advantages of the air-dry method are that in such a design the flowers do not die, and in the spring you can raise the covering material for airing.
To begin with, the ground around the rose bushes is dug up, then the branches are bent to the ground and fixed with wire or in another reliable way. But before that, spruce branches or cuttings of dry branches are placed under the shoots. At the first frost, the base of the bushes is covered with dry earth. With the onset of persistent frosts, you can cover with earth and branches about a height of 30 cm.Under such a shelter, the plant will perfectly overwinter any frost.
Next, you need to build a frame to shelter the roses. This design for sheltering roses is needed in order to throw a covering material over it, it can be spudbond, lutrasil, etc.
For the construction of the frame, metal arcs, tubes, pegs, wooden slats and other available material are suitable. There should be at least 10-15 cm between the frame and the rose.
If the bushes are not tall, they are covered with wooden boxes, or a kind of pyramid is built around the bushes from several slats, then a double cover made of covering material is thrown over it, or a special house for sheltering roses, which is easy to sew with your own hands or buy in a gardening store.
Lapnik, branches, frame, covering material - all this is necessary to retain the snow cover, because the main covering material for roses is a snow coat, because it is snow that will reliably protect plants from frost. Even in -30 frost under a snow coat, the temperature will not be lower - 4-5 degrees.
However, if the snow cover is not enough, then you will have to additionally cover the roses in winter with snow, otherwise the flowers may die in severe frosts. Roses covered with a good snowdrift are not afraid of any frost trials.
April. Work in the garden, in the garden, in the country
The main task for April is planting and replanting trees and shrubs. An important task in the garden is the preservation of the accumulated moisture during the winter, which is called "moisture closure".
1. On a pencil: Remember the main postulates when pruning: 1- The tool must be sharpened, 2- Reasonable pruning without hemp, 3- Large cuts are covered with a thin layer of var. Free the tied and bent raspberry shoots. Cut out dry wood and undeveloped young branches. It is impossible to shorten the tops of raspberries very much: pruning to the first overwintered bud will be enough. In gooseberries, currants are removed without leaving hemp, all old unproductive branches as thick as a thumb.
2. From the remaining imperfections: 1- Applying trapping belts to tree trunks to protect trees from harmful insects hibernating in the soil. 2 - In the first half of April, it is necessary to whitewash the trunks. 3 - Feed the trees with organic and mineral (mainly nitrogen) fertilizers.
On a note: In a young garden and berry fields, 3-4 kg of humus, 20-30 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium chloride or 0.5 l of a can of wood ash should be added per 1 m 2 of area. In a fruit-bearing garden, fertilizer rates are increased by 30%.
3. Important : Do not miss the moment when you can start digging the soil in the near-trunk circles of trees and shrubs... It's easy to check: take a handful of earth in your hand, squeeze and unclench your fingers. If the soil does not disintegrate into large pieces, it is too early to start digging, and if the soil crumbles into dust, then you are already a little late. In order not to damage the roots, the soil is dug along the radius from the trunk of the plant. Garden forks are often used on berry fields. The lumps are broken, and then the surface is leveled with a rake.
Country Tips: Weed roots are carefully selected, because even small parts of roots and rhizomes can grow new weeds.
4. On a note: Planting the garden can begin as soon as the ground has completely thawed. Plan and prepare planting holes ahead of time so that the soil in them grows. The planting hole should be twice the size of the earthen coma. Fill down with fertile soil mixed with organic fertilizers. Drive a stake in the center. Make a mound in the center of the hole and spread the roots on top, place a seedling. The seedlings must have a good root system. Do not plant plants with broken or diseased branches. When planting, compact the soil, water and tie the plant to the stake. After 1-2 days, mulch the trunk circle.
Country Tips: Plant currants obliquely, at an angle of 45 °, gooseberries - vertically. After planting, prune so that each branch has three buds above the soil surface. Cut the raspberries at a height of 40 cm.
5. Don't forget about strawberries - strawberries. After removing the winter shelters, examine the bushes. Where the roots of the bushes are bare, add earth, and where the bushes are sucked into the ground - dig up and free the heart. Feed the plants with nitrogen fertilizer, such as ammonium nitrate, which slightly acidifies the soil, which strawberries love very much.
6. It's time to remember the harvested cuttings and use them for grafting and re-grafting. Before the start of active sap flow, methods such as improved copulation and splitting are used.
7. On a note: Open the bushes at the beginning of the month, as soon as the soil dries out and if the forecast for the week is not expected to be cold down to -10 ° C. This applies to ground cover on chernozems and loams. If organic was used, the bushes are opened until the eyes swell. Bunches of vines, without undoing, attach vertically or obliquely to the trellis. In the second half of the month, when the likelihood of frost decreases and always before the kidneys swell, apply a dry garter. Tie the sleeves of the grapes obliquely, and all the fruit arrows - horizontally to the first wire of the trellis, while the ends must be slightly bent down.
8. On a pencil: To prevent frost damage to flowers, get ready for them in advance. Not when the thunder breaks out. Arrange smoke heaps, store old newspapers, used film for sheltering strawberries.
9. It's time to do the first spraying. At the beginning of budding in apple and pear, when a green cone appears on them, a "blue" spraying with Bordeaux liquid or Azophos is carried out.
On a note: Once every 3-4 years, an early spring spraying of fruit and berry plants is carried out with a solution of iron copper. Apples and pears are sprayed with a 5% solution, plums, cherries and other stone fruits, as well as berries, with a 3% solution. Iron vitriol not only helps protect plants from various fungal diseases and destroys mosses and lichens, but also, getting into the soil, stimulates the development of trees and shrubs.
"Moisture closure" is breaking up autumn lumps in early spring and then lightly loosening, and shallow, - a very important procedure for increasing soil fertility. If it is not produced in time, the sun and wind will quickly draw out the precious spring moisture from the soil. The moisture is closed before the soil is ready for digging. Before sowing, when the soil warms up enough, to preserve moisture, dig up as much soil as they are going to sow on that day.
Important: The time gap between digging and sowing should not exceed 3-5 hours. Otherwise, the land loses up to 60% of moisture and the seeds fall into difficult conditions even in the most favorable weather. Seedlings from this are delayed in growth and are weak.
2. On a note: The better the plant is fed, the less it requires watering.... Plants grown in well-fertilized areas use less water. Most of the nutrients are required for late-ripening cabbage varieties, then for carrots, beets and rutabagas. Average consumption of tomatoes and onions. The minimum is for radishes and cucumbers. Early fruiting of cucumbers and tomatoes depends on the availability of phosphorus at the moment when shoots appear. Cabbage and green plants require nitrogen fertilizers at the beginning of growth, and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers during the formation of the head of cabbage.
3. All attention to vegetable seedlings. It is fed and watered, adding manganese-sour potassium (3 g per 10 liters of water) to the water during irrigation, which increases the resistance of plants to the disease "black leg". The greenhouse is ventilated.
On a note: If the seedlings start to "stretch", increase the light intensity.
4. In the first ten days of April, remove the film in the morning from the beds prepared in March to obtain early greens, loosen the bed, spill it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and additionally pour with urea (1 tbsp of urea for 1 bucket of water). In the evening, loosen the bed again and again cover with foil. On warm days, the film is slightly opened and the garden is watered as needed.
5. In the third decade of April, cold-resistant vegetables are sown: radishes, carrots, parsley, onions, lettuce, dill, spinach, peas and other crops.
Works in the front garden
1. Conifers... If you have conifers on your site, do not forget to free them from shelter, and if you decide to decorate your "hacienda" with them, then the second half of April is the best time to plant them.
2. Lawn... As soon as the lawn is dry, it must be well combed with a rake with sharp teeth or a special harrow in several directions to remove dry grass, debris left over from the fall, and at least partially moss, which will improve air access to the roots of lawn grasses. After that, the lawn is fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
3. Roses... Gradually we open the roses (not forgetting about possible cold snaps). At first, just raise it, increasing the ventilation. With the onset of warm days, remove for several hours with partial shade so that the stems used to the humid air environment do not get burned. The cover is completely removed only when the snow melts. At the same time, if the snow has melted and the air temperature does not drop below -5 ° C, the roses are pruned until the buds have started to grow. The bushes and the ground under them are treated with fungicides for fungal diseases. The roses must be fed immediately after pruning.
To plant roses, you need to choose the right place in the garden. The best would be a sunny place. Roses have been growing in one place for 10 or more years, therefore, before planting, it is important to optimally prepare the soil for them. Roses grow well on fertilized loamy soils with neutral acidity. Rotted manure, compost and sand are introduced into clay soil. Loam, manure and lime are added to the sandy soil. The growth and flowering of roses is badly affected by excessive dampness of the soil, and with stagnant moisture, the leaves are affected by fungal diseases.
4. Rhododendrons and others... In the second decade of the month, remove the shelter from clematis, rhododendrons, other heat-loving shrubs and feed them with complex mineral fertilizers. Loosen the soil around the bushes and mulch so that the root system of the plants does not overheat.
5. Irises... As soon as the ground thaws, we rake it off the rhizomes irises: The sun's rays kill bacteria that cause them to rot. In addition, irises grow better after such a procedure. Spread humus or compost around the iris bushes. In spring and summer, you can make two dressings with full mineral fertilizer (20-30 g per 10 liters). When plants are damaged by pests, we spray them with Azophos. After a week, we repeat the procedure.
6. Gladioli... Plant sprouted bulbs in the last decade gladioli (distance from each other 10-15 cm, between rows 20-25 cm) .Children of gladioli should be planted until mid-April on a compacted net (3-5 15 cm). before planting the bulbs and children, soak in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. The bulbs can be divided into 2-3 parts, depending on the number of sprouts, by treating the wound surface with brilliant green or coal powder. Plant in a hole up to 10 cm deep with the bottom down or on the edge and even upside down. Grow gladioli in one place for no more than two years (at least up to three years).
7. Ornamental trees and shrubs are replanted. In flower beds (flower beds, borders), seedlings of viola, daisies, forget-me-nots, calendula and other annuals resistant to spring frosts are planted.
8. On a note: If the perennials in your garden have grown and shredded, it's time to separate them. Cut the edges of the bush with a sharp knife and carefully remove from the ground. Sprinkle the cut with charcoal.
nine.We put in order the alpine hill: we remove weeds and dry plants, fix stones, add soil if necessary, plant new plants on bare places, limit the growth of aggressively growing crops that interfere with our neighbors.
10. Interesting observations: According to the popular calendar, on the 32nd day after the blooming of the mother-and-stepmother, the flowers of the apple tree will bloom, and on the 29th day - the flowers of pear, cherry and plum. As soon as the hazel is covered with fluffy catkins, spinach, cold-resistant cornflowers, calendula, poppy and radish are sown in the open ground. When snowdrops appear, strawberries are freed from shelter. When crocuses bloom, you can safely sow leeks and chives, as well as delphinium and alyssum. A week later, a turn of carrots and parsley comes up. Once the violet and willow bloom, it's time to sow radishes, dill, onions, carrots and parsley. There are earrings on a maple tree - you can sow beets. The cabbage is planted in open ground when the nettle releases the second layer of leaves at a height of 10 cm from the ground.
Material prepared by: gardening specialist Buinovsky O.I.
Gardeners' tricks for plant conservation
- Winter-hardy hydrangeas are usually not covered, but in especially cold regions they are reinsured by wrapping the trunk with burlap and the root zone with spruce branches, peat or foliage. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not difficult, nevertheless, requires attention in the fall
- Paniculate bushes suffer greatly from snowfall due to the fragility of the shoots. To protect the bush, the branches are tied and attached to wooden supports, pruning of inflorescences in these varieties is required
- Serrated, large-leaved and other thermophilic varieties can be simply wrapped on the sides until the first frost, leaving the top open for free air circulation, and at the first frost covered with foil
- If flower buds are preserved during autumn pruning, the bush will bloom much earlier.
- At what temperature should the hydrangea be sheltered? It is necessary to wrap up the hydrangea before the night temperature drops below 0 ° C and provided that no thaws are expected. You need to keep an eye on the weather forecast
- When the upper branches are frozen for some reason, spring pruning will help to reanimate them.
How to cover a hydrangea for the winter, how to insulate it and whether it is worth doing it at all is the choice of every gardener. In warm latitudes, the bush will easily survive the winter, in colder latitudes it can freeze, but will quickly recover after spring pruning. An exception will be young flowers and plants transplanted from nurseries and greenhouses, in the first winter they just need insulation. Every year hydrangea becomes more and more hardy, adapting to climate, soil and weather conditions. Give your bush maximum attention in the first years of life, and it will delight you for many years.
Features of culture
Garden strawberries - winter green culture. She does not know what leaf fall is, and goes under the snow in green decoration, and renews her leaves throughout the season. Knowing this feature, we must take proper care of the plants. First of all, this concerns anti-aging pruning, which allows you to maintain the health of the perennial.
Ordinary varieties of garden strawberries are pruned immediately after fruiting
A cardinal haircut of ordinary strawberries, bearing fruit once a year, is carried out right after picking the last berries, that is, in the middle of summer. With this approach, the bushes have time to grow new lush rosettes of leaves by autumn, which serve as the key to their successful wintering. The foliage accumulates useful substances that add endurance to plants in a difficult winter period. Lush rosettes, covering flower buds and horns and trapping snow, protect them from freezing. The repaired variety is not subjected to such a haircut, but its dried and damaged leaves are cut out selectively throughout the season.
However, the natural shelter of strawberries from its own leaf outlet does not always guarantee reliable wintering. Sometimes plants look for support from the gardener and in late autumn ask for additional protection from the cold.