Sadly, but the most delicious grapes, diseases and pests are most often affected. For example, the Isabella variety with a sour, mediocre taste is resistant to the most formidable disease - mildew. With an increase in resistance as a result of crossing varieties and hybrids, palatability decreases. Breeders cannot overcome this law.
The most common and dangerous diseases of grapes and their treatment
If you are in the mood to grow delicious grape varieties, be prepared to provide the plants with constant care and gentle care. Indeed, in addition to non-infectious diseases of the vineyard caused by heat or high humidity, poor soil or excess nutrients, there are about 500 different diseases caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, etc.
If you are in the mood to grow delicious grape varieties, be prepared to provide the plants with constant care and gentle care.
Infectious diseases of grapes can spread quickly enough through the vineyard under favorable conditions for pathogens, leading to significant loss of yield and even to the death of the entire vineyard. Bacteria and fungal spores are transmitted not only through infected bushes, but also together with garden tools, human clothing, animals, as well as wind and water. Imagining the risk of grape infection with infectious diseases, you will understand how important preventive measures and timely identification of signs of diseases are.
Video about grape disease
Downy mildew, which growers also call mildew, is especially dangerous for the vineyard during the growing season of grape bushes with heavy rainfall. It affects the plant completely, including berries and shoots, first appearing as oily yellowish spots on the leaves of the grape. In wet weather and fogs, white bloom appears on the affected leaves, as well as on green berries and inflorescences, as a result, the diseased parts of the plant rot or dry out.
The pathogen fungus hibernates in fallen leaves or in the soil and is transferred to the plant with the wind and with rain spray
The pathogen fungus overwinters in fallen leaves or in the soil and is transferred to the plant with the wind and with rain spray. During the season, the fungus gives up to 20 generations, its reproduction can only be stopped by a decrease in air temperature to +13 degrees or the death of a plant.
- grape plants should not be thickened on trellises;
- do not allow the vines to hang to the ground itself - before the first wire, there should be a gap for ventilation;
- immediately remove weeds and branches broken off from grape plants;
- as soon as the shoots grow to 15 cm, spray the entire bush with a 0.75% solution of Bordeaux liquid;
- spray the bottom of the leaves of the grapes with 1% Bordeaux liquid before flowering, after, and before the berries ripen.
Treating infected bushes is ineffective, so it is best to take all measures to prevent mildew from affecting your vineyard.
When pruning grapes, the working part of the pruner or a garden saw must be disinfected after each bush over a fire or in a solution of potassium permanganate
There are currently no cures for such a dangerous bacterial disease of grapes as cancer. You can only try to prevent the spread of bacteria in your vineyard. When planting grape seedlings in the soil, carefully monitor them for lumpy tumors. If you find a diseased plant on the site, it must be uprooted immediately and not use this place for planting new plants for another two years. When pruning grapes, the working part of the pruner or a garden saw must be disinfected after each bush over a fire or in a solution of potassium permanganate.
The causative bacterium most often penetrates into grapes during soil cultivation, when pruning through wounds, from grafts and cuttings in nurseries. Together with the grass, the disease gradually spreads to all parts of the grape plant, and may not appear outwardly for a long time. Uneven tumors on the roots, grafting sites, on the sleeves and stems of grapes appear at high humidity and high air temperatures. Bacterial cancer leads to a halving of the yield, a weakening of the growth, and in the future - to the death of the bush.
Powdery grows well in shaded, unventilated vineyards at high temperatures
The harmfulness of such a disease of grapes as oidium, popularly called "ashtray" for an ash-gray coating on all green parts of grape plants, is quite high. The plaque is easily erased and has a specific smell of rotten herring. Inflorescences that are affected by the fungus dry up, the berries stop growing, their skin hardens and cracks, exposing the seeds.
Powdery grows well in shaded, unventilated vineyards at high temperatures. Throughout the summer season, fungal spores continue to spread, and the fungus hibernates in damaged vines and buds.
Vineyard processing should be carried out only when there are signs of powdery mildew. Bushes are treated with 1.5% colloidal sulfur and drugs such as Vectra, Strobi, Topaz, Flint, Quadris. Four treatments are required: before flowering, after it, after 20 days and finally in the first decade of August for early varieties.
If black spot affects already ripe berries, they acquire an unpleasant taste and turn dark purple.
Black spot, a disease caused by a fungus, can cause considerable damage to the vineyard. The first signs of the disease can be detected in June: black round dots appear on annual shoots, which then grow and merge into uniform longitudinal spots, after which the tissues begin to crack. On the lower leaves, angular or oval necrosis may form, surrounded by a light border. If black spot affects already ripe berries, they acquire an unpleasant taste and turn dark purple. Whitish spots may appear on perennial wood and mature vines. As the fungus mycelium grows into the wood, the bark begins to rot, the sleeves weaken growth and die off.
Video about grape diseases
It is impossible to destroy black spot with chemicals; its development can be reduced by spraying the vineyard with mical, euparen, ephal, and Bordeaux liquid. Bushes affected by spotting should be immediately removed and burned.
From various viral diseases in most cases, traditional preventive measures will help: a thorough check of the planting material, the timely elimination of plant residues, and the burning of diseased bushes. It is better to look at grape diseases in pictures than to deal with them on your own plot - this is a troublesome and not always effective business.
If you are not indifferent to grapes, you grow many different varieties in your summer cottage, then you just need to know about possible problems. Grapes are one of those plants that are often actively attacked by insects, parasites and infections. This could be due to inappropriate conditions, inadequate care or minimal nutrient availability in the soil. What are there grape diseases (photo) and how to treat them? We will learn the answers to these questions from the article.
Diseases of grapes (photo) and how to treat them?
The most common diseases
The main causative agents of diseases in tomatoes are fungi, viruses and bacteria. They can be in the ground or move through the air, get to the surface of the plant along with water. A feature of fungal pathogens is the fact that they can stay in a dormant state of spores for a long time until favorable conditions for reproduction come. So, the appearance of the first symptoms of the disease can come much later than the moment of infection.
Each disease has its own symptoms, which must be known and determined in a timely manner. When they are observed, measures should be taken immediately to treat tomatoes. Among all the possible ailments of tomatoes, the most common are:
A viral disease is transmitted by contact with insect vectors (aphids) or the remnants of previous vegetation. Infection occurs through damaged areas on the tomato trunk.
Symptoms of the disease can be observed on the leaves of a tomato and its fruits:
- tomato leaves curl, yellow or brown spots and stripes appear on them. With severe damage, tomato leaves die off
- the trunk and leaves of a tomato become very fragile
- on the surface of vegetables, you can see rounded spots of a changed color
- inside the vegetable there are green necrotic spots.
It is worth noting that the disease virus may be present initially on the surface of tomato seeds. In this case, it is possible to avoid infection of already adult tomatoes only if the strict rules for processing planting material are observed. So, tomato seeds should be treated with a manganese solution or a special chemical before planting. Breeders, in turn, offer farmers hybrids resistant to this disease: "President", "Anyuta", "Bella" and some others.
Unfortunately, already infected tomato bushes cannot be cured of the disease. Among effective methods of control, one can only apply preventive measures such as choosing a tomato variety that is resistant to the disease, treating tomato seeds before sowing, observing the light, temperature and humidity regime of growing, and regularly feeding tomatoes with nutrients.
This is a fungal disease that occurs when the fungus of the same name - phytophthora - gets on the tomatoes. Phytophthora often damages tomatoes in open ground and shows its symptoms in the autumn or summer in unfavorable, rainy conditions.
The characteristic symptoms of the disease are brown spots on the leaves and fruits of tomato. Drying, dark spots can also be seen on the trunk. A vivid example of the manifestation of late blight symptoms is shown in the photo below.
For the prevention of the disease, it is necessary to observe the humidity and temperature regime of growing tomatoes. Proper watering can also significantly reduce the likelihood of tomato disease. So, experienced gardeners use plastic bottles with a cut off bottom for watering tomatoes. By touching the neck of the container in the ground at the very root of the plant, you can get an excellent reservoir for easy and safe watering of tomato bushes.
For the prevention of the disease, you can use special drugs or some folk remedies, for example, an infusion of garlic with potassium permanganate. Whey also helps protect tomatoes from late blight. It is necessary to spray plants for prevention regularly when the weather is favorable for the development of the fungus, after prolonged rains, sharp temperature fluctuations. The preparations "Fitosporin", "Zaslon" and some others can also be used for preventive purposes. The most effective drugs include "Famoxadon", "Mefenoxam", "Mancozeb". These drugs are able to cope with the disease even with significant areas of plant damage, but after using them, tomatoes cannot be consumed for 3 weeks.
This fungal disease can be found under two names at once: black leg and root rot. The disease is often found at the stage of growing tomato seedlings, as well as in adult plants if the irrigation regime is not followed.
The main symptoms of tomato disease are blackening and decay of plant roots, and then of their cuttings. In addition to this, root rot can lead to wilting of tomato leaves and their drying out. Brown spots appear on the surface of the leaf plate during the spread of the disease.
For the prevention of the disease, it is necessary to process them with a preparation from the category of fungicides before planting tomato seeds in the ground. Also, a preventive measure to prevent the development of the disease is the disinfection of the soil by heating and ensuring drainage in containers with seedlings. If, nevertheless, the disease has caught up with already grown tomatoes, then you can use the drug "Ross" or "Pseudobacterin-2".
Tomato cladosporium disease (brown spot) is a rather dangerous, rapidly developing fungal disease that affects the leaves of tomatoes, and then the fruits themselves. Harmful fungi enter the tomato body through small lesions and wounds left, for example, after pinching or removing leaves. A favorable condition for the development of tomato cladosporiosis is high air humidity.
In the process of developing this tomato disease, a number of characteristic signs can be observed:
- light yellow concentric spots appear on the surface of the leaves, a brown "fluffy" bloom can be observed on their back side
- damaged areas of tissue on the sheets of tomatoes eventually turn brown and dry out. At the same time, tomato leaves curl, sometimes fall off
- the existing flowers wither and fall off, brown spots appear on the already formed fruits at the place of attachment of the peduncle.
There are various treatments for this condition. Among folk remedies, spraying tomatoes with a solution of baked milk and iodine is highly effective. For 5 liters of water, add 15 drops of iodine and half a liter of milk. When spraying, you need to especially carefully process the back of the tomato leaves. Wood ash decoction and whey solution can also be used to prevent and control tomato disease.
It is also possible to protect tomatoes and treat them from disease with the help of broad-spectrum fungicides, for example, with the help of the drug "Bravo". You can also treat tomatoes with a self-prepared mixture of chemicals. To do this, add 1 tbsp to a bucket of water. l. copper sulfate and 3 times more sulfur. Also, it is necessary to additionally add polycarbacin to the mixture in the amount of 1 tbsp. l. The resulting mixture is used to spray tomatoes. You can use the solution for tomato seedlings or already mature plants.
To do this, you need to shed the soil in the near-stem circle of the tomato with the working solution.
This tomato disease is not caused by fungi or harmful microflora. The reason for the development of the disease is unfavorable conditions for growing tomatoes: high atmospheric temperature and lack of moisture in the soil. Also, the factors provoking the disease are the low potassium content in the soil and its salinity.
A sign of the disease is the appearance of a brown rounded spot on the top of the fruit. The tissues of the vegetable under the dark skin begin to rot, over time, the damaged area becomes soft. At the slightest touch, these tomatoes can fall off.
To prevent the disease, it is necessary to regularly water the tomatoes, preventing the soil from drying out.Calcium deficiency can be prevented by liming the soil, as well as the introduction of various dressings containing this trace element. For example, the drug "Brexil Ca" contains both calcium and boron. You need to use the product for spraying tomatoes on a leaf (10 g of substance per bucket of water).
Preparations such as Megafol or Sweet can also be used to protect tomatoes from top rot. They allow tomatoes to better absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil, as well as transport the resulting energy to the most distant leaves and fruits of the tomato. Under the influence of these drugs, tomatoes ripen faster, become more juicy, accumulate a large amount of vitamins, and acquire resistance to low temperatures and stress.
Other types of rot
Diseases can occur on tomatoes completely unexpectedly. The number of possible diseases sometimes frightens even the most experienced farmer. There are several types of rot alone. Below are the most common tomato putrefactive diseases, their photos and treatment.
The manifestation of this tomato disease is a gray bloom on the tomato stem. As the gray spot spreads, the stem stops letting in nutrients and moisture, contributing to the death of the tissues of the plant's vegetative organs. Further development of the disease is manifested by the appearance of a gray coating on the tomatoes themselves.
The treatment of this tomato disease consists in removing the section of the trunk or leaf damaged by the fungus, as well as treating the tomato with fungicides. For the prevention of the disease, you can use the drug "Glyocladinol".
The primary symptom of infection and spread of this disease is white bloom on the lower leaves of tomatoes. Gradually, tomato leaf plates become watery, losing their usual green color. The disease over time damages the entire tomato bush, rising from the bottom up. The fruits of tomatoes are also covered with a white fluffy bloom. Moreover, this is typical both for vegetables that are at the stage of ripening, and for already quite ripe fruits.
For the prevention of disease and treatment of tomatoes at an early stage of development of a fungal disease, you can use a solution of copper sulfate, urea and zinc.
The symptoms of this disease can be seen on tomato fruits. So, when tomatoes are infected with brown rot, a dark putrefactive spot is formed on the fruits of the tomato along the perimeter of the stalk. Its diameter can be only 3-4 cm, however, the damage inside the fetus is much larger than one would expect.
The disease occurs when the fungus enters the tomato fruit through the existing damage in its skin. The fungus can be brought in by a breeze or a drop of water. As a preventive measure, tomatoes should be treated with a Bordeaux mixture or copper chloride.
All fungal diseases of tomato develop in a humid environment, which means that the fight against them is, first of all, in the restoration of a normal microclimate. It is also worth noting that regular feeding of tomatoes and the formation of bushes in the morning can act as preventive measures.
Signs of this viral disease can be observed in already quite adult tomatoes at the stage of ovary formation. The symptom of the disease is the appearance of small dark green cracks in the lower part of the tomato stem. In the process of development of the disease, air roots appear in the places of cracks, while a general wilting of the leaves of the plant is observed, the bush falls and dies.
The source of the disease is infected seeds or contaminated soil.
The soil where the infected tomatoes grew must be etched with a 2% solution of the "Fitolavin-300" preparation.
Sometimes on the leaves of a tomato, you can see strange formations that resemble flour dust. This symptom signals a tomato infection with powdery mildew. At the site of such spraying, ulcers appear on the tomato leaves over time, and the tomato leaves themselves turn yellow and fall off under the influence of the disease.
To prevent the disease, it is necessary to follow the rules for watering tomatoes, as well as to correctly use nitrogen-containing fertilizers, without overdoing it with their quantity. When observing the first signs of the disease, the amount of phosphorus and potassium in the soil, on the contrary, must be increased. If a disease occurs, tomatoes can be treated with soda or manganese solution, infusion of garlic or wood ash. For the treatment of tomato disease at the stage of progressive development, you can use the drugs "Topaz", "Fundazol".
All of these diseases can significantly harm tomatoes, destroy them or significantly reduce the yield of vegetables. Tomatoes with strong immunity, obtained as a result of proper plant care, can independently resist diseases. Timely detection of the problem and elimination of it at an early stage of development allows you to maintain the health of the tomato and prevent the destruction of the vegetable harvest.
More information about tomato diseases can be found in the video:
This viral disease is characterized by leaf curling and the formation of yellow spots on them. The ring spot virus spreads very slowly through the garden. But it is dangerous because yellow spots on the leaf plates are visible only in spring and autumn. In the summer you may not notice them.
The curled leaves become thin, brittle and break easily from touch or wind. Plants affected by this virus do not develop well and often die.
- The virus is spread by nematodes that can live in the soil and develop on the roots of many other plants, so crop rotation will not save the situation. If more than 20 nematodes are found in 500 g of soil, then the substrate should be treated with nematicides.
- It is not recommended to plant raspberries and blackberries in a place where there used to be beds of strawberries, cabbage or tomatoes. It is best to plant shrubs where beans, peas, beans, beans, and other legumes grew.
On the territory of Europe, this harmful representative of fungal pests has existed for many years. Gray rot can affect not only all grape varieties, but also many other crops. This is the only parasite that remains on a diseased bush for a whole year, affecting all its green parts and annual wood. In cold, damp weather, bloom can be seen on young shoots and buds. The berries infected with the disease first become gray-brown, and in wet weather a gray bloom appears, while the bunch is a mushy, ugly lump, which is clearly visible in the photo. In dry weather, the first shriveled berries appear, and when the ridges of the bunch are damaged, it is visually visible that they become greenish-brown in color, and then they can fall off.
The causative agent of the infection can develop even at not very high temperatures. The fungus spends winter on the surface, as well as inside the bark, which is one year old. If it has settled well inside the bush, then under the condition of high humidity, after 5 days, conidiophores will appear, which will cause the appearance of a gray bloom. Treatment of this disease is very troublesome, since drugs that affect the causative agent of the infection are best used in advance and constantly.
Soap and Bordeaux liquid used many years ago are today recognized as ineffective, therefore, drugs such as Benomil, Derozal, and Cercobin are used to combat the disease. They get inside the bush and heal the plant from the inside. Chemical control of the disease includes treatment with contact fungicides such as "Ronilan" and "Rovral". These remedies work well when applied regularly and every two weeks until mid-August. Gray mold damage can also be reduced by shaping, weed control, and by providing the shrubs with adequate growth and development.
Diseases of raspberries and blackberries - description with photos and methods of treatment
Adding an article to a new collection
Currently, there are many varieties of raspberries and blackberries that are disease resistant. But still, you should know what diseases exist, how they are dangerous and what are the ways to deal with them.
Raspberries and blackberries are unpretentious plants, therefore they practically do not cause trouble for gardeners. But bad luck, these berry bushes can infect various diseases that threaten not only a low harvest, but also the death of the bushes. How do you recognize these ailments and deal with them?
The main enemy of apricot is moisture that contributes to the spread of diseases. Therefore, it is recommended to plant the apricot in high sunny areas. High humidity accelerates the development of clasterosporium disease, moniliosis, verticillosis and other diseases. To avoid this, prune, whitewash and spray the trees with fungicides every year. In the fall, do not forget to remove and burn the fallen leaves in a timely manner.
Stone cell cytosporosis
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that affects all types of stone fruit, but it poses the greatest danger to young apricot and peach trees. For them, infection with cytosporosis can be fatal.
Through microcracks and wounds, the fungus penetrates under the bark of the tree and begins to build up its mycelium, which leads to the drying out of individual sections of the bark, and then the branches. The tissues affected by cytosporosis acquire a reddish-brown color. When trying to separate the infected area from the wood, it does not exfoliate, but grinds up. The most characteristic sign of cytosporosis is small blackish tubercles protruding on the surface of the infected part of the trunk.
Remove dry branches in a timely manner so that the disease does not spread to healthy shoots. To treat the disease at an early stage and as a preventive measure, spray trees every spring with 1% Bordeaux mixture or another copper-containing preparation.
Only wild apricots (poles) do not suffer from cytosporosis.
Bacterial necrosis, or cancer (burn), stone fruit
Bacterial cancer is an extremely dangerous infectious disease that affects all organs and tissues of a tree. And although infection with this disease can occur in different ways, most often it happens due to the fact that in early spring the tree receives a sunburn, in the place of which ulcers oozing gum form over time. If the affected area is not cleaned up in a timely manner, the disease will quickly spread deeper and, exposing the trunk, will reach the wood. Bacterial necrosis can spread from stone fruit plants to lilacs and pome crops.
At the first sign of illness, trim affected branches to healthy tissue and burn off site. Disinfect the sections with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and coat with RanNet, Blagosad or analogs. As a preventive measure, spray trees with 1% Bordeaux liquid - in spring and summer and 3% Bordeaux liquid - in the fall during leaf fall.
Remove the gum promptly. Sprinkle the soil in the place where the affected trees used to grow with bleach (200 g per 1 square meter) and dig up. Grow more disease resistant varieties. Apricot varieties such as Pineapple Tsyurupinsky, Hungarian best, Hardy, Komsomolets, Red-cheeked, Nikitsky, Parnas, Shindahlan.
Monilial apricot burn
Infection with moniliosis, a dangerous fungal disease of stone fruit, usually occurs during flowering, when the spores of the fungus enter the stigmas of the flower pistils and grow through them into the fruits, and then into the vessels of the tree. If the infection occurred during the flowering phase, then the first victims of moniliosis are leaves and flowers, which begin to dry out and fall off almost instantly. In the case of a later lesion, the disease manifests itself as immature mummified fruitlets.
Collect and destroy dried fruit in a timely manner. Be extremely careful when trimming. Spray trees with 1% Bordeaux mixture in early spring. If the plant shows signs of disease, remove the affected parts to healthy tissues and be sure to disinfect the wound with Blagosad, RanNet or their equivalent. Examine the treated tree and its neighbors as often as possible for signs of recurrence of the disease.
Brown leaf spot, or phyllostictosis, apricot
At the onset of the disease, dark yellow spots appear on the leaves, which eventually change their color to dark brown, and the middle of the spot becomes noticeably darker than its edges. A little later, characteristic black dots form on the leaves. In warm and rainy weather, the disease spreads very quickly throughout the crown, thus leading to a sharp decline in the intensity of photosynthesis, due to which the plant ceases to receive a sufficient amount of nutrients.
Spray the trees with 1% Bordeaux mixture at the time of bud break. Constantly inspect the orchard and remove the affected leaves in a timely manner, not forgetting about thorough cleaning in the near-stem circles.
Hole spotting, or clasterosporia, stone fruit
Left - clasterosporium on peach leaves, on the right - clasterosporium of apricot fruits
At the first stages of the disease, small red-brown spots appear on the leaves and fruits of the apricot tree, which after 1-2 weeks become covered with a dark brown crust. If the crust peels off, then a dent (on the fruit) or a hole (on the leaves) remains in its place. With a strong fungal infection, the branches of the plant are covered with red-purple spots, which over time degenerate into sores exuding gum.
Prune and burn all affected parts of the tree in a timely manner. Treat wounds and cracks with copper sulfate and cover with disinfectant. In autumn and early spring, spray trees with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or its analogues (Abiga-Peak, Indigo) or use industrial fungicides (Skor, Planthenol, Horus). Do not forget to apply complex fertilizer to the soil of the near-stem circles and, of course, carefully monitor compliance with all the rules of agricultural technology.
Apricot gum flow
By itself, gum is not a disease, but a signal that the plant has become a victim of some kind of disease. In the case of exotic crops, such as apricot or peach, this may also indicate that the tree is growing in inappropriate climatic conditions.
Carefully remove the gum, clean the damaged area, cut off the dead tissue (brown color) to live wood. Treat the cut sites with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and RanNet or Blagosad.
In addition to diseases, pests can also cause significant harm to strawberries. To preserve the harvest, diseases and pests of strawberries should be detected in time (photo), and their treatment should be carried out immediately.
Slugs love warm and humid places. Therefore, thickened strawberry plantings, where a large amount of moisture is retained, is an excellent place for them to live. They destroy some pests that can start in the garden.
However, the harm done by slugs far outweighs the benefits. They love delicate strawberries. They destroy ripe fruits with great speed, making it impossible to enjoy their taste.
Comprehensive measures should be taken to combat slugs.In addition to substances that scare away or destroy these parasites, it is necessary to use substances that can reduce soil moisture.
Folk remedies do not give high efficiency when compared with chemical ones, but their use is necessary if the berries have already formed. Good results from folk remedies are shown by sprinkling strawberries with wood ash, black ground pepper and processing with saline.
The nematoda is a small worm that lives in the soil. It is almost impossible to find them in the soil at the initial stage. They can be determined only by the corresponding symptoms, among which there are yellowing of the leaves, thickening of the veins, shrinking, slowing down of growth and a change in the shape of the berries.
These signs are similar to many strawberry diseases (photo), and their nematode treatment makes them useless. Trying to cure the disease, you will not get the desired result, because the pest is the cause.
Deformation of strawberries by nematodes
- You can reduce the effect of strawberry nematode on strawberry bushes by following simple rules of crop rotation. It is recommended to periodically replant the plants to new locations. The nematoda, not finding his favorite delicacy, will soon leave this site.
- There are strawberry varieties that are resistant to the influence of this pest. They just ignore the strawberries. Choosing the right strawberry variety can help you deal with hookworms in your garden.
- The use of chemicals is also allowed. Usually the roots are treated with special preparations, for example, fosdrin or parathion. You should clean the roots of strawberries from the ground and immerse them in the solution for 10 minutes. After that, the roots are washed with running water.
- Beneficial fungi can also be harmful to worms. The introduction of compost into the soil increases their population. This method is also beneficial for the plants themselves, which will begin to receive more nutrients.
The key to success in the fight against diseases and pests is the timely detection of symptoms. An attentive gardener will always be able to see that his plants have changed and need urgent support.
Late treatment of damaged plants can lead to the death of both part of the crop and the plants themselves. Having found symptoms, you should immediately begin the appropriate treatment of the disease and the destruction of pests.
The description of the strawberry disease (photo) and their treatment in the video posted below gives a clear understanding of what to do if obvious symptoms of the disease are detected.