How many potato tubers do you need per hundred square meters

How many potato tubers do you need per hundred square meters

Our regular author is the potato grower G.D. Sherman based on years of experience made a table that allows a novice gardener to determine the need for potato planting material .

We hope that it will be useful to all our readers, allowing them to avoid unnecessary expenses when purchasing planting material.

You just need to decide: how much area you will allocate for potatoes and what tubers you want to get in the fall - very large, large, medium or small seed material.

And then look at the table, everything is interconnected there. For example, if you want to get a harvest of only large and medium tubers, then there should be no more than 20 potato stalks on each square meter of your beds. Let's say you have tubers for planting up to 45 mm in diameter, each of which can produce 4 stems. This means that you will need 25 kilograms of tubers of this caliber per hundred square meters, or about 500 pieces. The following are options for planting tubers to achieve the desired result: row spacing, and based on it, the step of planting tubers. Good harvest to you!

Biologically and economically the most advantageous stand density for obtaining potatoes for food purposes is 20-25 st / m².

Our regular contributor
potato grower G.D. Sherman


Urea consumption per 100 sq. m. is from 1.5 to 2 kg. This amount is calculated for the pre-sowing (main) application to the soil. For processing potatoes on a leaf, the norm is about 0.5 kg. In the first case, dry granules are used, and in the second, a solution. The preparation of the latter requires dilution of 35-40 g of the substance in 10 liters of water.

Consumption can increase and decrease. It all depends on the fertility and composition of the soil, but the figures given are optimal. It is better to carry out additional foliar dressing than to oversaturate the soil with nitrogen even at the stage of site preparation.

14 fertilizers best for potatoes

During the period of tuber formation and growth, potatoes greatly impoverish the soil, therefore, for them, the soil must be fertilized every year. The best time to fertilize potatoes is the planting period. But for a good harvest, this is not enough, the tubers need to be fed periodically during growth.

Features of feeding potatoes during planting

Potato fertilizer classification

Mineral fertilizers for potatoes

Calculation of the amount of fertilizer

Benefits of fertilizing when planting

Fertilizers for potatoes are usually applied in the fall before plowing the garden and in the spring. Additionally, many people feed the plants by root or foliar method during the growing season. For autumn application, compost and rotted manure are most often used in the amount of 5-10 kg per square meter. After plowing, organic matter is evenly distributed in the soil and during the winter it turns into more accessible forms for assimilation by potatoes. The same happens when applying minerals, except for nitrogen fertilizers.

But this method also has its drawbacks: useful trace elements during plowing are located at a depth of 15-20 cm, and the root system gains access to them only after growth. In addition, a lot of fertilizer is required, and it is not so easy to distribute it throughout the garden. In the case of mineral fertilizers, this is also an additional expense, since their cost is quite high.

In the spring, nutrients can be applied before planting, spreading evenly over the garden and lightly loosening the soil. But the most convenient and practical way of feeding is to apply fertilizers during planting, that is, directly into the holes. Firstly, the root system gets access to useful substances from the very beginning, and secondly, fertilizers are consumed several times less.

If fats are used, this is already a real cost saving, which is important for any gardener. In addition, the soil in the hole remains loose for longer, and the roots grow faster.


I have tried many red varieties, but I constantly have problems with them - they will give birth badly. Rocco is the only red variety that did not disappoint in yield - the yield is excellent, even in the heat. However, the taste is not so hot, we do not like potato chips, we fed them to thinness. They gave up the redskins and Rocco too.

Alexander, Kiev region

Last year, they planted Roko, an interesting variety, it grows for a long time, Belarosa had already turned yellow, and Roko was green. Our soils are heavy, clayey, they brought black soil from above, gave birth to potatoes well, although they were not watered at all, there was little rain. Didn't get sick. Delicious, fruitful (8 buckets per bucket), unpretentious - we will plant again.


I have been growing potatoes for myself and for sale for many years, I have tried many varieties. We always plant Rocco, in any summer he gives a good harvest, last summer they dug up 1 to 13, Adretta next to him - 1 to 6. They love him on the market, he is a leader in sales, they willingly take him, his appearance is excellent. We fry it, it just turns out excellent, for soups it is better to take other varieties, boil them. We plant the rest of the varieties on a hundred square meters, and give Rocco 5 hundred parts. Stores well.


Rocco was raised for 3 years, did not degenerate. A good variety, very productive and the Colorado does not like it. We like the taste, it goes great for frying, does not fall apart, for salads and for a side dish - it's just super. But you need to watch out for late blight.

Olga, Chelyabinsk

Rocco is our leader in terms of yield. In the field, they dug 1 to 13, the tubers are even, large, 150-250 grams each. Good taste. These potatoes are suitable for frying, casseroles, for mashed potatoes and soups, there are much better boiled varieties.


Storage types:

• permanent (cellars, basements),
• temporary (pits, trenches, heaps).

The priority, of course, is the first type of storage. The reason is that it is possible to maintain an optimal microclimate. The thickness of the potato layer is up to 1.5 m. In any case, the distance from the surface of the embankment to the ceiling should be at least 0.6 m.

For pits, trenches, heaps, dry, high places with deep groundwater are required. Potatoes are covered with straw (layer thickness - 0.5 m), earth (from 20 cm). With the first frost, the soil layer thickens to 0.4 m.

Larisa Skripka

It is impossible to abuse the droppings because of the significant amount of nitrogen: in large doses, it can be harmful.

It all depends on how exhausted he is.

Lazy cactus

Manure on light soils 40-60 kg per m², on heavy soils - 30-35 kg per m², application rate

Olga Pogodina

Tatiana B


But the horse-bag is small from 15 kg - 150re - just beauty!

** Elena **

Once upon a time there was a pigeon. But you really need to be careful with him. Scattered for the winter, too little

Made in paradise

The construction team was settled

Elena Akentieva

Fresh droppings are bad for plants. it is better to bury it at the fence and next year rotted droppings will be an excellent fertilizer. And I do not recommend fresh, except in the form of a solution.

Tatiana Mikhalchuk

Goes 3-4 l / m2, for zucchini, pumpkins, peppers and tomatoes - 0.5-1 l for each plant.

Watch the video: How Much Potato Should You Get From One 1 kg or 2 lbs Seed Bag?