Houseplants Published: June 11, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:
Fuchsia (lat.Fuchsia) - a plant belonging to the Cyprus family and numbering up to 100 species. The plant was named after the German botanist - Fuchs. In natural conditions, it is common in South and Central America.
Fuchsia, depending on the variety, are trees or small shrubs. In some species, the leaves grow opposite, in others, in whorls; some types of fuchsia shed their leaves after the end of the growing season. Leaves are lanceolate, elongated-oval or ovoid; the edges of the leaves are both solid and with small notches. The flower cups are tubular and elongated, most often white or red with long stamens.
An amateur florist can also grow fuchsia - it is quite easy to take care of the plant. They are grown both as ampelous plants and as standard trees. One of the important conditions for caring for fuchsia is that the plant should overwinter in cool conditions. Another difficulty is that the plant sheds its leaves after flowering.
Briefly about growing
- Bloom: from spring to late autumn.
- Lighting: bright diffused light.
- Temperature: during the growing season - 18-24 ºC, in winter - 5-10 ºC.
- Watering: from March to September - immediately after the top layer of the soil has dried, and from the end of November - only occasionally, not allowing the clod to dry out completely.
- Air humidity: from May to August, spraying with warm water is needed early in the morning and in the evening, and in the fall - once every 2-3 days. In winter, spraying is stopped.
- Top dressing: from April to September - every two weeks with a complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants.
- Rest period: from late October to late January.
- Cropping: at the beginning of the active. Shoots of ampelous varieties of fuchsia are not cut off.
- Transfer: annually in early March, after pruning.
- Substrate: 3 parts of leafy soil, 2 parts of peat and 1 part of sand.
- Reproduction: seeds and cuttings.
- Pests: whiteflies and spider mites.
- Diseases: spots, rot, loss of decorativeness due to violation of conditions of maintenance or improper care.
Read more about growing fuchsia below.
Fuchsia home care
The optimal location of the fuchsia plant is considered to be windows on the east and west windows, since the plant needs a lot of bright, but diffused light. Can withstand direct sunlight in the morning and evening. If fuchsia at home stands on the south window, then the plant must be covered with a translucent cloth or paper to avoid burns. On the north side, a lack of lighting can lead to stretching of the plant and poor flowering (or none at all). When indoor fuchsia is in bloom, it should not be rearranged or rotated, as this can cause the plant to shed buds and leaves. Fuchsia can be taken outside in the summer, but you need to do it gradually, accustoming you to new conditions of detention.
The air temperature during the growing season can range from 18 to 24 ° C. Fuchsia should overwinter in a cool place (5 to 10 ° C above zero) with good lighting. At higher temperatures, the fuchsia sheds its leaves and the shoots stretch out. The plant needs an influx of fresh air, but you need to ventilate carefully, since drafts can destroy the plant. In summer, the plant can be taken out to the balcony, providing suitable conditions - no precipitation, draft and direct sunlight.
Pour home fuchsia with soft, settled water at room temperature. From March to September, watered immediately after the topsoil has dried, since at this time the substrate should be constantly slightly damp. Since October, the frequency of watering is reduced, and by the end of November they almost stop (this will contribute to more abundant flowering next year). When fuchsia is kept in winter at temperatures up to 10 ° C, watering is very rare, and when wintering above 10 ° C - a little more often.
Spray a fuchsia flower with soft water - you need to defend the water for 24 hours before spraying. From May to August, they are sprayed 2 times a day - before 9 am and after 6 pm. In the fall, spray it every two to three days. In winter, you do not need to spray the plant.
From April to September, the fuchsia plant is fed every 2-3 weeks with complex mineral fertilizers for indoor plants. In winter, the plant does not need feeding.
Compliance with all conditions for keeping fuchsia in room conditions will give it the opportunity to bloom from May to November, and even give berry-like juicy fruits. Withered flowers must be removed - this helps the plant to form young buds. Transferring fuchsia to the balcony in July and pruning three times over the summer will contribute to long-term flowering - until December.
Overwintering fuchsia at room temperature leads to stretching of the stems and leaf fall. Since flowers form mainly on young shoots, in order to promote their development, old naked shoots must be cut off (they can be used for propagation by cuttings). Throughout the growing season, the indoor fuchsia flower is cut and pinched. Pinch young shoots after the formation of three pairs of leaves.
To form a tree, one vertically growing shoot is attached to a vertical support and all side shoots are cut until the trunk reaches the desired height. After that, the top is cut off and 3-5 lateral shoots are allowed to develop, which will form the crown of the tree. Three years later, a beautiful lush crown will form.
A room fuchsia transplant is carried out annually at the beginning of March. Before transplanting, the old shoots are cut off by at least a third and the roots are slightly shortened. In ampelous species, shoots are not shortened, since the plant loses its decorative effect. Fuchsia is transplanted into slightly acidic soil, consisting of deciduous soil, peat and sand (3: 2: 1). Another option for the substrate is 3 hours of clay-soddy soil, 2 hours of greenhouse soil and 1 hour. sand (and some peat chips). Drainage is poured at the bottom of the pot one-fifth of its height. After transplanting, the plant is abundantly sprayed and watered, placed in a place with bright diffused light. In the middle of summer, homemade fuchsia can be transplanted into fresh soil.
Growing from seeds
To obtain fuchsia seeds, you need to artificially pollinate. When pollinating different types of fuchsia with different shapes and shades of flowers, you can get a new hybrid.
Propagation by cuttings
When propagating by cuttings, cuttings 5-7 cm long are needed. For rooting, cuttings of fuchsia are placed in water or one end is buried in the sand. Cuttings will take root within 3-4 weeks. Cuttings are planted in 9-centimeter individual pots in a substrate of equal parts of humus, leaf and sod land, sand. To grow lush bushes, cuttings need to be planted several pieces in one pot. Young homemade fuchsias should bloom in the same year. Slow growing species are best propagated by cuttings in late summer.
Diseases and pests
Fuchsia is sick. Fuchsias do not tolerate stagnant air well - during the growing season, the room must be regularly ventilated or put fuchsia on the balcony.
Fuchsia fades quickly. Fuchsia can bloom for a short period with abundant watering and kept in warm conditions in winter; with insufficient lighting in spring and summer; with insufficient watering and feeding in the summer.
Fuchsia leaves fall. If fuchsia sheds leaves in winter, the plant can be removed from bright light, and the buds that appear should be pinched.
Fuchsia sheds leaves. Leaves may fall off if humidity is too low, watering is poor, and temperatures are too high.
Fuchsia buds fall with insufficient lighting and too warm air, as well as with irregular watering.
Spots on fuchsia leaves. The plant can get sore spots if the plant is watered too often during the winter.
Fuchsia has dropped the buds. During flowering or budding, the plant cannot be rearranged - it may shed the buds. The same consequences will be if you put fuchsia in a draft.
Fuchsia pests. Most often, fuchsias annoy the whitefly and spider mite.
Fuchsia brilliant / Fuchsia fulgens
It occurs naturally in the Mexican mountains. These are one to two meter long evergreen shrubs with bare branched shoots. The leaves are large, shaped like an elongated egg or heart-shaped; in length reach 20 cm, and in width - 12 cm, not pubescent, serrate along the edge. Reddish flowers grow in drooping racemes at the top of the shoots; the corolla tube tapers towards the base and reaches a length of up to 10 cm; petals up to 10 cm long. The fruit is expressed by an edible berry. The flowering period is all summer.
Fuchsia bolivian / Fuchsia boliviana
It lives in the mountainous regions of Argentina, Ecuador and Bolivia. Evergreen shrubs growing up to a height of 1 m with a little. The leaves are pointed at the top, ovoid or elliptical in shape with small serrations along the edges, reach 15 cm in length, 6 cm in width.It blooms in early to mid-spring with dark red 1-cm flowers collected in the apical racemes.
Fuchsia magellan / Fuchsia magellanica
Also known as fuchsia multi-colored (Fuchsia discolor) or fuchsia conical (Fuchsia conica). Shrubs growing in height from 2 to 5 m. Shoots slightly pubescent, purple in color. Leaves grow either 3 pieces in whorls, or in turn, reach a length of up to 5 cm, ovate-lanceolate, serrate at the edges, covered with purple veins. The flowers are axillary, they grow either one at a time, or in 4 pieces. The corolla tube is reddish and the petals are bluish-lilac. The flowering period is from late spring to late summer.
Fuchsia corymbose / Fuchsia corymbiflora
Inhabits mountain slopes in Ecuador and Peru. Shrubs with straight stems grow up to 5 m in height. Leaves up to 17 cm long and up to 7 cm wide, oval, slightly pubescent, smooth edge, red central vein. The tube of the calyx is red, the petals are purple. The flowering period is July-August.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Fireweed
- List of all species on The Plant List
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Lovely Levisia - landing and leaving
Home »Lovely Levisia - Planting and Care
Many gardeners love Levisia for its compact miniature appearance, lush and bright flowering, delighting with its splendor. Levisia is a low plant that can compete with other ornamental garden plantings, not inferior to them. With it, any flower garden takes on a truly rich, luxurious and amazing look.
Description of the plant
The genus name Aster comes from the ancient Greek word asteri = "star", which is associated with the stellar shape of the flower. The genus is divided into more than 150 species and is part of a large family of plants with basket inflorescences - Asteraceae.
It is worth noting that perennial asters are not associated with those that usually bloom in summer, that is, the annual Chinese asters - Callistephus chinensis.
The height of various varieties varies from a few centimeters to three meters. The shape, arrangement and appearance of the leaves change with each species. However, all species and varieties are characterized by inflorescences in the form of baskets, sometimes mistakenly considered single flowers. In fact, the long white, pink, or blue "petals" are colorful reed flowers, with yellow tubular flowers in the center.
Although asters are associated with the arrival of autumn, there are species and varieties that bloom in late spring (alpine) and summer. Baskets develop singly or in groups at the ends of slightly pubescent stems. In the garden, these flowers are grown as annuals or biennials.
Outdoor arena maintenance
It is best to choose a place for planting in a sunny part of the garden, partial shade is also suitable. As for the soil, it is best to give preference to sandy loam with a thick drainage layer, since the gerbil does not tolerate stagnant moisture. pebbles or broken bricks can be used as a drainage layer. It is necessary to water the arenaria at least 2-3 times a week. After watering, be sure to carefully loosen the soil around the flower, this will make the soil more breathable. The arenaria does not need frequent fertilization, it is enough to apply balanced mineral fertilizers once a season and this will be enough for good growth and development of the flower.
Dried inflorescences and leaves should be regularly trimmed so that the plant does not waste its energy on them. A plant can grow in one place for more than 5 years.
Arenaria is not affected by diseases and attacks of harmful insects.
Transplant and reproduction
When growing jacaranda, it is important to remember that the plant itself will let you know when it is time to change the container. As soon as the roots fill the pot completely, it's time for the plant to change its place of residence.
Untimely transplanting can affect the growth of the plant. The tree is transplanted in the spring. We choose a container 2-3 cm wider in diameter than the previous one. We lay out the bottom with drainage, you can prepare the soil yourself. To do this, mix:
- leafy ground - 4 parts
- humus - 2 parts
- peat - 2 parts
- turf soil - 2 parts
- sand - 1 part.
We take out the roots of the jacaranda together with an earthen lump and place in a new prepared pot. Fill the free space with an earthen mixture. We do not deepen the root system.
After planting, the plant is watered and left alone for several days.
At home, jacaranda is propagated in two ways: cuttings and seeds.
Cuttings are carried out from spring to mid-summer. Small cuttings 6-8 cm long are freed from the lower foliage, placed in a heteroauxin solution for a day, rooted in a soil mixture of peat and sand. 3-4 cuttings are planted in one container. It is desirable to maintain the soil temperature + 23 ... + 25 degrees.
Growing jacaranda from seeds
Jacaranda from seeds is grown in the spring in mini greenhouses. The growing process is quite troublesome. Seeds, wrapped in a damp cloth, are kept in a warm place for 24 hours. In prepared greenhouses, seeds are deepened by no more than 1 cm, watered. Ventilation is necessary once a day, lasting 10-15 minutes. The temperature for seedlings should be at least +22 degrees. The first shoots appear in 14-20 days. When sprouts appear, increase the lighting. Young seedlings, one copy at a time, are planted in small pots, no more than 7 cm in diameter.
The flowering of a plant grown from seeds can be expected by the age of seven.
Types and varieties of oleander with photos and names
Common oleander (Nerium oleander)
At home, varieties of common oleander, also known as fragrant or Indian, are successfully grown. Its forms differ in different colors of inflorescences and their size.
Oleander pink terry
Forms a neat bush no more than a meter in height. The elongated foliage is green and resembles willow. Up to several dozen flowers can bloom on one bush at the same time. They have a double structure and a white-pink color. Flowering continues until November.
This oleander is sensitive to light and requires frequent ventilation of the room.
Differs in unpretentiousness and is often found in workrooms and offices. The bush can reach 2 meters in height, but easily tolerates pruning. The foliage is leathery, dark green, lighter on the seamy side. The flowers are white, they can be simple or slightly double and have a pleasant smell. Flowering lasts from early summer to October.
Simple flowers of this oleander can be colored in tones of red, burgundy or crimson. Sometimes in the center of the flower there is a small white speck or light streaks.
Forms yellow flowers resembling a bell. The seeds are similar to those of a chestnut, with several plants developing from one seed.