The Japanese method of growing tomatoes is an interesting technology for caring for this crop, popular in Russia. It allows you to harvest a high yield with a minimum amount of time, facilitates the processing of plants. Read more about this technique below.
What the network calls the Japanese method of growing tomatoes. What is its essence and differences in comparison with the usual agricultural technology of tomatoes, from the Chinese method. Is this a marketing ploy or a real new way
Japanese technology for growing tomatoes is focused on accelerated seed growth and rapid seedling formation. To quickly awaken the seed, an incision is made in a narrow place with scissors. From this point, the growth of culture begins.
The main rule is that the shell should not crack completely - only crack. This will shorten the period during which the peel will swell and open on its own.
The seeds are then placed in loose soil - ideally sawdust. The composition allows moisture to pass through, saturates with oxygen, maintains the required temperature regime.
Seed planting scheme is standard. Each is placed horizontally. Sawdust is spilled with boiling water and compacted. The container is covered with foil and left until the shoots appear. Then the film is removed and the seedlings are dived.
Unlike standard options for planting tomatoes, the method of oriental farmers makes the process easier, the culture ripens more actively, and remains resistant to temperature fluctuations. A high yield, large and fleshy fruits are the result of growing using this technology.
The Chinese method of planting tomatoes is based on obtaining strong, sturdy seedlings, which will be the key to high crop yields. The Japanese technique allows you to get seedlings in an accelerated way, if the main time is lost. At the same time, she has an original version of planting plants in the ground, when all efforts are concentrated on the preparatory stage.
In addition, the Chinese method involves sowing the seeds earlier. Shoots that form faster than the established time are cut at the height of the cotyledon leaves. The stalk is placed in a glass and allowed to grow further - up to the moment of rooting in the ground.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of the method
This technology has undeniable advantages:
- the period from sowing seeds to placing them in the soil is reduced;
- cuttings have a strong root part;
- seedlings have more leaves;
- strong stem;
- brushes are formed much lower, the stem is not stretched out so quickly. This has a positive effect on the harvest;
- resistant to diseases and pests.
- greenhouse required;
- seedlings need additional lighting;
- the survival rate is 70%.
Who is the method suitable for, which varieties of tomatoes can be used and why
Japanese technology is suitable for those gardeners who are engaged in mass planting of tomatoes, has sufficient territory and will be able to provide seedlings with full care:
- good lighting;
- optimal temperature conditions.
Compliance with these conditions is imperative to obtain a high yield.
The ideal option is to have a greenhouse.
Choose the following tomato varieties:
- Japanese crab - not afraid of cold weather, yields a harvest until late autumn. Allows you to collect up to 8-9 kg from one bush. Has a slightly flattened shape, frequent small grooves, juicy flesh. The weight of one tomato is 250-300 grams. Grows in greenhouses and outdoors;
- Truffle - 6 -7 tomatoes grow on one branch. Color - from deep pink to black. Outwardly it resembles a pear. The bush has many leaves. Ripening period - 155-120 days. Popular due to its high taste characteristics;
- Chisato - an unpretentious hybrid that grows well in our latitudes. Productivity - 9 -10 kg per bush. Loose pulp, sweetish taste, intense red color. The weight of one tomato is 150-200 grams. Resistant to both dryness and excessive soil moisture. Afraid of the cold at night.
How to properly grow tomatoes according to the Japanese method. Step-by-step instruction
A distinctive feature of this technology is the minimum time spent on the garter of plants - it is this stage that requires accuracy and takes a lot of effort.
Keep in mind that holes for seedlings are made in the fall - long before the start of planting. The process of growing seedlings is standard; picking is also done in the usual way. Each shoot is removed and placed in a separate container, then in open ground.
Note! Planting tomatoes itself does not require much effort, while the preparatory measures will take a sufficient amount of time.
Step-by-step algorithm of actions:
- dig small holes in a checkerboard pattern. The optimal distance between them is 1 meter;
- remove the soil, lay out the earth nearby;
- take a rake or pitchfork, loosen the bottom of the pit well. Keep in mind that the soil below should be fluffy. This will deepen the root of the seedling as much as possible, so that the plant receives a sufficient amount of water and nutrients;
- insert a rod or peg into the center of each hole. Choose the height depending on the type of planting material. Tall varieties for normal development will need a height of at least 300 cm.For medium-sized and low types of tomatoes, 200 cm is enough;
- Prepare a mixture of turf soil, humus and compost in a 1: 1 ratio. Add some sand and wood ash 250 grams per 10 kg of mixture;
- pour the composition into the hole;
- on top, place the ground that you selected earlier. Spill the soil abundantly with a mixture of wood ash and a solution of nitroammofoska;
- re-loosen the soil with a hoe or rake. So that in the process of subsequent watering the water does not pour out of the hole, make a semblance of earthen sides around the circle;
- with the onset of spring, when the time comes to plant the plants, make holes with a diameter of 5 cm in the pits. Lower the cutting inside;
- knock down the soil with the pressure of water from a hose - it should tamp the seedling;
- tie each bush to a support.
To get a high-quality result from the work done, agricultural experts recommend:
- if it is written on the packaging of tomato seeds that they are processed, additional preparation should not be done;
- so that the seedlings take root faster, monitor the moisture content of the soil;
- so that the stems of the plant do not stretch out, are even and strong, provide them with direct lighting;
- in the process of leaving, loosen the soil more often, this will enrich it with oxygen and prevent an excess of moisture;
- plant seedlings only when there are no sharp temperature fluctuations at night and during the day;
- 10-112 days after planting the culture in the ground, feed the seedlings with ready-made preparations. When the 3rd brush is tied, repeat the procedure. Add mineral components to the top dressing;
- normalize the number of brushes - if there are too many of them, the tomatoes will be smaller in size, which will reduce the yield;
- water the bush directly under the root with water at room temperature. The optimal time is from 4 pm to 7 pm.
The opinions of those who have tried this technology in practice are divided. Popular reviews of Russian gardeners:
- with this method of cultivation, the bushes became stronger, the number of fruits increased. The time it took to form the seedlings paid off with a high yield;
- when picking and placing in open soil, not all seedlings take root. Some of them died after a dive;
- the culture is less sick, bears fruit better;
- the fact that the first brush is tied low above the ground increases the total number on the bush. Hence, the yield is higher;
- shoots grow poorly without a greenhouse effect. The result is a thin stem and weak roots.
The cultivation of vegetable crops requires certain knowledge, the ability to apply them in practice. Tomato is an unpretentious garden crop. Use the Japanese method of growing plants, select the appropriate varieties. Feel free to experiment. The reward for the effort and time spent will be a rich harvest.
[Votes: 1 Average: 5]
The method has more negative reviews, since many use an initially failed growing scheme. It consists in the fact that the seed tubers are placed at the bottom of the bag and, as the stems grow, they constantly sprinkle the earth until it is completely filled. They try to grow potatoes in barrels in a similar way. The result of such cultivation is peas at the bottom. The potatoes are not allowed to turn into a fruiting bush, he spends his strength on the stems, which all summer unsuccessfully reach for the light.
Positive experience (video)
To get a good harvest, you need to create conditions for the plants that are as close to natural as possible. And since the bag is a limited space, you need to look after the potatoes even better than the one growing in the field. So, the earth will dry out more often, there are less nutrients in a limited amount. However, the method is worth it to be adopted by vegetable growers who have little or no land plots. The bags can be placed at a country house, in retaliation, in a courtyard or front garden. There are recommendations to grow potatoes on the balcony. But it should be borne in mind that in the fall, to harvest the bags, you will have to turn over or cut them. In any case, the land will be on the floor and on the lower balconies. In addition, such a volume of land (from all the bags) will need to be removed somewhere and somehow.
Bagged potatoes require even more attention than in the field
Advantages and disadvantages of the method (table)
|you can grow potatoes without having a plot of land||everything in most cases has to be bought|
|no need to dig, weed and huddle||need to water often|
|soil in bags, compared to cultivation in buckets and barrels, breathes, water does not stagnate||additional feeding is needed|
|you can buy good soil or disinfect it, saving potatoes from diseases and pests||the crop grows more modestly than under straw or in a classic field with the same care|
|there are ants in the bags|
|bags under the influence of dampness and sunlight are destroyed by autumn|
How to grow seedlings
To get seedlings, sow the seeds in the first decade of March, but remember that under favorable conditions the tomatoes will begin to stretch quickly and will be too tall by the time you move to the beds.
Preparation will help you to accelerate seed germination, reduce the risk of infections, and increase the yield of tomatoes.
First of all, select the planting material. Empty the grains and examine them - throw out the small, crooked and empty seeds. Prepare a saline solution: dissolve a tablespoon of salt in a glass of water. Dip the seeds into it. After 15-20 minutes, remove the grains that have floated to the surface and throw them away, and take those that have sunk to the bottom for planting.
Warm up the seeds: spread them on a cotton cloth or newspaper, in bags and place them on the battery.
Disinfect the planting material. Prepare a 1% solution of potassium permanganate: dissolve a teaspoon (no top) of potassium permanganate in three glasses of water. Place the seeds in the solution for 15-20 minutes, then rinse them with running water.
Important! If there is no potassium permanganate, use hydrogen peroxide. Dissolve 1 tbsp in 400 g of warm (40 degrees) water. l. 3% peroxide and place the seeds in the solution for 12 hours. This method both kills infections and accelerates seed germination, but is not suitable for pelleted (with a nutritious shell) and encrusted (with a thin water-soluble layer containing disinfecting and growth-stimulating components) grains.
Place the seeds in warm water (26-30 degrees) and stir every hour for 15-18 hours (if you have an aquarium compressor, use it). This procedure is called bubbling - oxygen enrichment. The process increases the germination and growth of the crop.
Soak the seeds in water or biostimulants: at a temperature of 20 degrees for 12 hours. Popular biostimulating drugs among Russian summer residents: "Zircon", "Epin", "Immunocytofit".
Wrap the seeds in cotton cloth and plastic and refrigerate for 8 hours. Remove to a warm room for 8 hours. Repeat the temperature change 5-6 times. Hardening will help grow frost-resistant shrubs. Farmers say that the yield will increase by 30%.
Important! Hardening is a complex process in which there is a high risk of spoiling the planting material. If you are unsure of the correct procedure, do not perform it or use all the seeds.
Place the seeds, wrapped in cheesecloth, on a flat dish (saucer or petri dish). Moisten the fabric constantly with warm water (25 degrees). When embryos 2-3 mm in size appear, sow the seeds into the ground.
Capacity and soil
Use plastic cups, containers, bottles as containers for seedlings.
Buy all-purpose tomato soil from the store. It includes:
- river sand.
You can prepare the soil mixture yourself. To do this, mix:
- 1 part of the land from the garden (take from the site where cucumbers, zucchini, carrots, dill grew)
- 2 parts non-acid peat (pH 6.5)
- 0.5 parts of sand (river or washed)
- 1 part humus or sifted mature compost.
Add wood ash (dolomite flour), sphagnum moss and fallen needles.
Disinfect both the soil and containers before use with a solution of potassium permanganate or warm it up in the oven at a temperature of 200 degrees.
Submerge the seeds 1-1.5 cm into the ground, spray with water from a spray bottle, cover the containers with foil or glass and put them in a warm, lighted place.
Growing and care
When sprouts appear, remove the film. Water with a spoon or syringe, being careful not to get on the plants.
In the phase of 3-4 true leaves, make a pick. Add mineral fertilizing to the new soil (1 tablespoon per 5 liters of soil). Plants are planted in separate containers and added dropwise to the cotyledon leaves. 10 days after transplanting, feed with complex fertilizer. Repeat feeding every two weeks.
Avoid getting water on the stem and leaves when watering.
Temper the seedlings, so the tomatoes will quickly get used to the new conditions, it will be easier to endure a sharp change in temperature and night frosts. 2-3 weeks before the move, start taking the seedlings out into the open air: in the first days for 3-4 hours, in the last days, leave them overnight.
Important! FROMobserve the air temperature during hardening: +20 during the day, + 7- + 11 at night. Do not leave seedlings in a draft, strong winds can damage weak leaves and stems.
When planting a tomato of the Siberian Tiger variety in the southern strip, you can get an excellent harvest in the open field. In the middle and northern latitudes, it is better to grow this tomato in greenhouses and film shelters, since its fruits do not tolerate cold temperatures well.
Productivity and fruiting
The mid-season Siberian tiger variety - technical maturity occurs in 110-120 days from the moment of emergence. With proper agricultural technology, you can achieve good yields: from 1 bush - 3-4 kg, and from 1 sq. m - up to 12 kg.
Recommendations for increasing the yield of tomatoes Siberian tiger.
- Tomatoes love fertile, light soils. The best predecessors are beans, carrots, cucumbers and cabbage.
- It is not recommended to plant tomatoes in the same place earlier than 2-3 years later.
- When growing crops in a greenhouse, it is necessary to monitor the temperature regime.Temperatures exceeding plus 32 can be detrimental to tomatoes. It is also important not to forget about airing.
- Fresh humus should not be used. This can enhance the growth of stepchildren and large leaves, while the stem, on the contrary, will become thinner. Fruits will set harder and grow more slowly.
- It is necessary to remove stepchildren in a timely manner, otherwise part of the harvest will be lost.
- Tomatoes do not like excess moisture, so do not overuse it with watering.
- To increase the ovary, the bushes can be sprayed with boric acid (0.02% solution).
- Do not abuse the breaking of leaves in order to increase the yield. Without these actions, you can get the opposite effect. After all, the leaves provide the plant with useful substances and vitamins. Only diseased and damaged leaves should be removed on tomatoes.
Scope of the fruit
Tomatoes of the Siberian Tiger variety can be eaten both fresh and for preparing a variety of dishes. From ripe tomatoes it is easy to prepare canned salads for the winter, lecho, ketchups, sauces, adjiki, Spanish gazpacho soup, tomato paste and juice. You can add them to salads, stews, soups, pizza. Due to the high content of acids in the fruits, they are harmoniously combined with meat dishes both fresh (as a side dish) and in the form of sauces and marinades.
Disease and pest resistance
The Siberian tiger has a strong immunity to the development of many viral, infectious and bacterial diseases. Bushes are not attacked by various pests. If you follow all the recommendations for growing and caring for tomatoes of this variety, you do not have to worry about any problems with productivity.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
Based on the description of the variety and reviews of gardeners about the yield, it is possible to highlight both the advantages of the Siberian tiger tomato (photo) and its disadvantages.
- exotic coloring
- excellent and unusual taste characteristics
- can be grown both indoors and outdoors
- large fruit weight
- a large number of ovaries are formed
- fruits are not prone to cracking when watering
- tomatoes hold well on the stalk when overripe
- resistance to overripe cracking
- versatility of fruits
- high productivity.
Every vegetable has its drawbacks. This variety is no exception. Disadvantages of Siberian Tiger Tomato:
- the plant is tall, so its growth has to be restrained by pinching the top of the main stem
- the need to tie up not only the stems, but also the bunches
- needs pinching, since it is recommended to form a plant only in 1-2 stems, so as not to overload
- the fruits have a thin skin, so the variety is not suitable for whole-fruit canning
- The Siberian tiger is not very suitable for transportation. Delicate skin is severely damaged by any physical influences, so they should be placed in boxes carefully and neatly, in one row.
- the harvested crop is not stored fresh for a long time
- in a warm climatic zone, all clusters ripen, even when grown in the open field. In other latitudes, this variety is preferable to grow in greenhouses.
Mortgage on a new building: step-by-step instructions for registration
Mortgage on a new building: how to apply for housing under construction? Today will be disassembled in detail mortgage on housing under construction (new building).
- how to buy an apartment during the construction phase,
- will be available step-by-step instructions for registering a new building on a mortgage,
- as well as answers to key questions on this topic.
Features and nuances
Primary mortgage and mortgage for secondary housing differ in a number of parameters:
1. An apartment in an apartment building under construction can be recognized as a new building within the framework of the program "shared construction mortgage".
The key cut-off in this case will be obtaining a certificate of ownership. After this moment, the apartment is considered built and is already considered a secondary property, although visually it will be a completely new object, in which no one lived.
The certificate can be obtained only after the house is put into operation and the deed of acceptance of the transfer of the apartment is signed. Sometimes there is such a moment when the house is built and the deed is signed, but the certificate has not yet been issued by the developer, in this case, banks “can no longer” lend under the program for new buildings, but cannot “yet” on the secondary market, therefore a number of banks are launching the so-called “ mortgage dead period "(Sberbank, for example). As part of this program, you purchase an apartment under a preliminary sales and purchase agreement. You should not be afraid of such schemes. Everything is legal and legal.
2. There are three ways to buy an apartment under construction:
- by DDU. This is an official document of the shareholder (investor), on the basis of which, subsequently, a certificate of ownership of the apartment will be issued. This equity participation agreement contains information that you have a share in the common house under construction and the land under it, as well as other essential information.
DDU is regulated by 214 FZ and is the safest way to purchase a new building. Do not under any circumstances enter into a preliminary shareholding agreement. If you do this, you risk never seeing your apartment. As a rule, this agreement is appealed by unscrupulous developers who cannot build according to the legislation, and this promises the risks of long-term construction. At the same time, you will be absolutely unprotected by anything, unlike participants in shared construction.
- under an assignment agreement (mortgage assignment of rights). Absolutely legal way to purchase an apartment. It differs from the first one in that you buy an apartment from an investor not directly from the developer, but from a previous buyer under the DDU.
Assignment mortgages (cessions), as a rule, have a higher interest rate. the state seeks to directly support developers and encourages the purchase of apartments from a direct builder. There are also additional risks associated with the transfer of rights.
- under an agreement with the housing cooperative. The cooperative is the most unreliable form of purchasing a new building. Here you have only a membership card in your hands. There is no need to register a deal. You just buy a share in a housing cooperative. Apartments are kept by the developer. At the same time, there are risks of double selling. As a rule, this scheme is used by developers who have problems with a building permit, and they decide to first build a house, and then deal with its registration with the authorities. Builders work faster than bureaucrats in offices.
In Novosibirsk, there was a case with one of the buyers from the largest developer in the region for housing construction. Instead of the promised apartment, they wanted to move him into a technical room of 8 sq.m. It turned out that the managers of the developer had already sold his apartment again to someone. To the developer's credit, the issue was resolved and the buyer was given the keys to another apartment, but the sediment remained. Also, for the objects of housing construction, a classic mortgage is impossible, but only a mortgage secured by existing real estate or other alternative mortgage options are more expensive.
3. New buildings on a mortgage must meet a number of requirements.
The developer must first go through the accreditation procedure in the bank for each of its objects. Each bank has its own requirements both for the reliability of the developer and for the degree of readiness of the house. Some are ready to lend a house at the excavation stage, others need to close the zero cycle, and some show growth of 1-2 floors and above.
A situation may arise when you cannot purchase an object under construction from a developer on a mortgage in the bank you need, due to the fact that the bank simply did not accredit or does not want to accredit the developer and / or the house.
4. High risk.
For a bank, a mortgage for primary housing is always a risk. It is not known whether the developer will complete the house or not, therefore, to protect against possible problems, banks may request additional security for the construction period (a surety or a pledge of other real estate).
5. Apartment mortgage insurance and appraisal is not issued immediately, after entering the house.
As always, the main requirement of any bank to a borrower is a good credit history. However, this is not the only requirement:
- All co-borrowers have a positive credit history (if there are problems, see our post "mortgage with bad credit history")
- The borrower must have Russian citizenship and residence permit (if not, see the post "mortgage for a foreigner")
- The borrower's age must be between 18 and 75 years old at the end of the loan
- Work experience: at the last workplace - more than 6 months, in general over the past five years - more than a year (there is a bank with a requirement for experience of 3 months or more)
- The borrower's income must be on average 40% higher than the prescribed amount of monthly payments on the mortgage
Also, banks can provide you with special conditions when applying for a mortgage on a new building, if you:
- Bank salary client
- You work for a person or organization that is a partner of the bank.
List of required documents
Package documentsrequired to obtain mortgages for a new building, standard:
- Application (questionnaire) for obtaining a mortgage. You can ask the bank for a sample of such a statement right away.
- RF passport.
- If there are several borrowers - copies of documents proving their identity. Co-borrowers must also provide copies of all other required documents.
- Labor book and its copy.
- Certificate of income in the form of personal income tax2 or the form of a bank.
- For pensioners - a document confirming pension accruals (for example, an account statement).
- If the borrower is a payroll client of this bank, he must also provide only the card number.
Step-by-step instruction for registration of a new building on a mortgage
1. Decide on the developer and the object
Before going to the bank, you need to understand how reliable the developer is. Check the information on the Internet for missed deadlines for current and past objects, bankruptcy, reviews of equity holders and residents of the microdistrict.
It is also very important to check construction permits, land, legal documents for the developer himself. It will be problematic to do this on your own, but you can order a free consultation from our lawyer. Fill out the special form in the corner. This will save you a lot of time, and most importantly, you will be confident in the reliability of the developer.
Be very careful when buying real estate at the excavation stage or in the last house of the complex. As a rule, these are the most risky investments.
Check with the developer for the list of banks that have accredited the property you need. Next, we collect the necessary documents for the bank and submit them to the bank directly or through the developer's mortgage broker.
The service of a mortgage broker from a developer is usually free. Be sure to use it. The broker knows all the conditions of banks and will be able to offer the most profitable option. Also, you do not have to run around the banks, but it is enough to collect one package of documents and hand it over to a specialist. Moreover, he already has everything set up with the banks and he knows how to fill out an application so that it is definitely approved. If there is no broker, then we recommend this service. Go to the mortgage section and apply for a consultation.
After the approval of the bank, we finally decide on the version of the apartment and the bank. Further, the developer's specialist prepares the DDU. Its template is usually already agreed with the bank.
A sample equity agreement can be downloaded here.
4. Next, the bank sets the date of the transaction
On this day, you come to the bank along with all the documents on the application and the signed DDU. You need to pay for insurance and sign a loan agreement. A number of banks ask for a down payment to a letter of credit account. For this they will take an additional commission.
5. Registration of mortgages in Rossreestr
With all the signed documents, you go along with the developer's employee to the justice department to complete the transaction.
This process with transaction costs is described in more detail in the "Registering a Mortgage" post.
Registering a mortgage will take approximately 10 business days. After that, you need to contact the bank with a registered preschool education institution. He issues a loan and transfers to the developer.
After that, you pay the mortgage, wait for the completion of construction and then register the property.
Registration of a mortgage for a new building takes about 1 month.
Bank conditions for a mortgage on a new building
Mortgages for shared construction are presented in almost all banks. Further, we have selected 30 offers for you at the moment.
|Bank||Rate,%||PV,%||Experience, years||Age, years||Note|
|Sberbank||10||15||6||21-75||9.9 for electronic registration of a transaction |
-0.5% if the salary of Sberbank
7.4% -8% if subsidized by the developer
|VTB 24 and Bank of Moscow||9,45||15||3||21-65||9.2% if the apartment is more than 65 sq.m., salaries of PV 10%,|
|Raiffeisenbank||9,99||15||3||21-65||10% PV for salaries, 0.59-0.49 discount for certain developers|
|Gazprombank||9,5||20||6||21-65||10% PV for gas workers, 15% PV for large partners|
|DeltaCredit||12||15||2||20-65||FB 20% PV, 1.5% discount if 4% commission,|
|Rosselkhozbank||9,45||20||6||21-65||maternity capital without PV the rate does not change, a discount of 0.25 if over 3 million, another 0.25 discount if through partners|
|Absalut Bank||10,9||15||3||21-65||FB + 0.5%|
|Bank "Saint-Petersburg||12||15||4||18-70||0.5% discount for salaries and with a closed mortgage in the bank, -1% after entering the house|
|Promsvyazbank||10,9||15||4||21-65||10% pv for key partners|
|Russian capital||11,75||15||3||21-65||0.5% discount for clients through bank partners, 0.5% discount for PV from 50%|
|Uralsib||10,4||10||3||18-65||0.5% higher if the bank form is 20% PV, 0.41% discount if PV is 30% or more|
|AK Bars||11||10||3||18-70||discount 0.3% if PV is 20-30%, over 30% discount 0.6%|
|Transcapitalbank||13,25||20||3||21-75||you can reduce the rate by 1.5% for 4.5% commission, after entering the house, the rate is reduced by 1%|
|Bank Center-Invest||10||10||6||18-65||from 5-10 years the rate is 12% then the index of the Mosprime rate (6M) as of October 1 of the previous year + 3.75% per annum|
|FC Otkritie||10||15||3||18-65||0.25 plus if fb, 0.25% discount for corporate clients, a decrease of 0.3% if you pay a commission of 2.5%, 10% PV if a salary employee, 20% PV according to FB|
|Zapsibkombank||10,99||15||6||21-65||0.5% discount for salaries|
|Moscow credit bank||12||10||6||18-65|
|Globex Bank||11,8||20||4||18-65||0.3% discount for salaries|
|SMP Bank||11,9||15||6||21-65||0.2% discount for a PV of 40% or more, 0.5% discount for a preferential category of clients, a 10.9 - 11.4% rate for a quick exit to a deal|
|Eurasian Bank||11,75||15||1||21-65||4% commission - 1.5% discount works on delta|
|Alfa Bank||11,75||15||6||20-64||4% commission - 1.5% discount works on delta|
It should be understood that the specific conditions of bank offers in the primary housing market may depend on a variety of factors:
- You can earn yourself a "percentage discount" already at the stage of choosing a developer: you can purchase housing on a mortgage from companies accredited by the bank at a discount at an average interest rate of 1%.
- Also, if you are a salary client of the bank, you can count on an additional benefit: the interest rate will be lower for you by 0.5-1% per annum.
- If you have a mortgage assignment from physical. individuals, then the rates will be about 1-2 percent higher. Interest rates for the transfer of rights are not very attractive, so when choosing such an apartment, bargain with the seller at a discount and carefully check the reason for the sale.
- Military mortgage equity construction has its own characteristics and nuances. You can find out about them in a separate post.
Pros and cons mortgages for a new building
The primary housing market in Russia is actively developing: this means that it is fraught with both additional opportunities for the profitable acquisition of housing and significant risks.
Advantages of a mortgage for a new building:
- Low cost of an apartment or house.
- The unequivocal absence of any existing legal obligations on the living space, for example, a bank encumbrance.
- The rate from the developer is lower than for finished housing.
Cons of a mortgage on a new building:
- The construction company may go broke and the house will never be completed. In order not to run into such a situation, it is better to purchase housing under construction at the final stage.
- During the construction period, you will have to pay simultaneously both the mortgage and rent housing, if there is none.
- Overstating a mortgage is harder to do, which means that a mortgage without a down payment becomes less real.
Banks are actively working with the segment of new buildings, therefore, special programs are issued for mortgage borrowers to stimulate demand. If you are interested in learning about the "mortgage vacation" program and mortgage deferral for the construction period, please click the button of your favorite social network and leave a comment below.
Video: Expert Tips: New Building on a Mortgage
Caring for potted tomatoes
Taking care of tomatoes when grown on windowsills is not so difficult. If the soil mixture has been disinfected, and indoor flowers are at some distance, the culture will get away from most of the diseases and pests that annoy it in the open ground and greenhouses. Tomatoes located on window sills have much less problems than growing them on balconies and in hanging baskets next to the house.
The care is as follows:
- regular watering
- loosening the substrate 1-2 weeks after transplanting
- removing the lower leaves if they are on the ground
- supplementary lighting up to 12-16 hours a day, and in a row - the plant must also rest
To maintain decorativeness, you can remove the leaf or stepson "out of order", but you should not be too zealous. Preventive treatments for tomatoes on the windowsill are usually not needed. But if there are infected indoor plants in the house, or the planting was carried out in a self-compiled substrate, you will have to use both fungicides and insecticides in the dosage indicated on the package.
You do not need to pollinate tomatoes with cotton swabs. It is enough to shake the bushes several times during flowering.
In greenhouses or in the garden, tomatoes receive many of the vital elements from soil and air. Even on the balcony, more both useful and harmful substances enter through the leaves than in a closed room.
That is why, when growing tomatoes on a windowsill, it is recommended to use complex fertilizers for nightshade crops. And to carry out top dressing both under the root and on the leaf. This will have to be done every 2 weeks, diluting the drug 2 times more than indicated on the package. If you manage to find a fertilizer specifically designed for containerized tomatoes, you just need to strictly adhere to the instructions.
Otherwise, the plant will constantly experience a lack of one or another macro- or microelement. You will have to determine what exactly the tomato is lacking on your own. Any mistake is fraught, at best, with a loss of decorativeness, at worst - with the death of the bush.
Those who are still going to make up a "diet" of tomatoes standing on the windowsill on their own need to know:
- At the initial stage of development, nitrogen should prevail in the fertilizer. In the future, it is impossible to completely exclude it from dressings. Tomatoes take nitrates from the soil in the beds. When growing tomatoes in a pot culture on a windowsill, the owners must make up for the shortage, but give nitrogen in very limited doses.
- After the appearance of ovaries, tomatoes require mainly potassium, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium. They affect the formation and development of fruits, the accumulation of sugars, and therefore taste.
- Microelements are poorly absorbed by tomatoes through the root. It is best to give them when processed on a sheet in a chelated form.
- Epin and zircon are not fertilizers. These are anti-stress drugs of natural origin, which are recommended to be added to the working solution with each foliar feeding.
When growing tomatoes on a windowsill, the main thing is to choose the right variety. It should be standard, beautiful, with small fruits, capable of growing in a small pot. And we should not forget that indoor tomatoes are intended primarily for decorating a room, and then for eating.