Evergreen Hydrangea Care – Growing An Evergreen Climbing Hydrangea

Evergreen Hydrangea Care – Growing An Evergreen Climbing Hydrangea

By: Teo Spengler

If you love your garden hydrangea plants but would like to try a new variety, take a look at Hydrangea seemanii, evergreen hydrangea vines. If you are considering growing an evergreen climbing hydrangea, or just want more evergreen climbing hydrangea information, read on.

Evergreen Climbing Hydrangea Information

The Hydrangea seemanii is a climbing hydrangea vine that can get 30 feet (9 m.) tall. It has big, thick, rounded leaves that look more like they belong on an evergreen magnolia than a hydrangea. They contrast beautifully with the creamy blossoms.

The glossy leaves stay on the hydrangea vine year round, while the flowers appear in summer, attracting butterflies and bees. The copious amounts of ivory white flowers emerge as tight ivory buds that look like duck eggs. They open into lacecaps.

Evergreen hydrangea vines thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. They are native to Mexico and Central America. According to evergreen climbing hydrangea information, these vines cling to their support with aerial roots. This is one vine that does not harm walls or masonry.

How to Grow Evergreen Hydrangeas

One other unusual feature of these vines is that they thrive in shade. You can start growing an evergreen climbing hydrangea in dappled sunshine, partial shade or even full shade. However, they flower more in some sun.

The vines aren’t picky about the soil acidity either. They will grow in slightly acidic, neutral or slightly alkaline soil. They do prefer rich, well-drained soil. You’ll need to remember its one absolute requirement, however: sufficiently moist soil.

If you start growing an evergreen climbing hydrangea, never let the soil dry out completely. Irrigating evergreen hydrangea vines regularly is a very important part of their care. If the soil is allowed to dry, your vine may suffer or even die.

Give your shrub the evergreen hydrangea care it needs. You’ll get a wonderful hydrangea plant that makes your garden look great all year long.

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Read more about Climbing Hydrangea


How to Grow Climbing Hydrangea on a Trellis

Climbing hydrangea has many qualities that make it a favorite vine of landscapers and homeowners alike. Climbing hydrangea clings easily to a trellis or nearly any other structure, and at maturity it will climb to more than 50 feet in height. The dinner-plate sized white blooms appear in mid-summer and last for several weeks against the hydrangea's shiny, deep foliage. The hydrangea's shaggy, red bark provides interest when the blooms and leaves disappear for the winter. Although climbing hydrangeas are slow to establish, it's important that they get started out right with a sturdy trellis to climb on.

Purchase a climbing hydrangea at a garden center or greenhouse. Be sure the hydrangea has bright, shiny vines and leaves. Avoid plants that look wilted or that have dead or yellowing leaves.

  • Climbing hydrangea has many qualities that make it a favorite vine of landscapers and homeowners alike.
  • Climbing hydrangea clings easily to a trellis or nearly any other structure, and at maturity it will climb to more than 50 feet in height.

Choose a trellis for your hydrangea to climb on. Climbing hydrangea needs a sturdy support, so look for a trellis constructed of wood, wire or tubing. If you choose a wood trellis, cedar, redwood and cypress are durable and long-lasting. Metal trellises made of aluminum, copper tubing or wire are sturdy and won't rust. Keep in mind that a flat surface won't be sturdy enough to support a climbing hydrangea, unless it's provided with supports. If you aren't planting the climbing hydrangea near an existing structure, consider using a ladder-type trellis.

Decide where you want to plant your climbing hydrangea. Climbing hydrangea requires well-drained soil and will grow in either partial or full sunlight. If you plant to locate the trellis next to a wooden building, leave 15 to 18 inches between the trellis and the building because as the hydrangea gets larger, it can cling to the wood and cause damage, including rot. If you're planting the climbing hydrangea next to a masonry or brick wall, the trellis can safely be leaned against the wall.

  • Choose a trellis for your hydrangea to climb on.
  • Climbing hydrangea needs a sturdy support, so look for a trellis constructed of wood, wire or tubing.

Prepare the soil in the planting area. Work the soil to a depth of at least 18 inches with a shovel or garden fork. Remove all weeds, along with any rocks and large dirt clods, then add 2 to 3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure to the top of the soil.

Install the trellis before you plant the climbing hydrangea. The installation will depend on the type of trellis, but installation may require metal stakes or fencing spikes to support the trellis securely. If you use wooden posts, be sure they're treated with a preservative so they won't rot. If the trellis needs to be painted, be sure the paint is completely dry before you plant the climbing hydrangea.

  • Prepare the soil in the planting area.
  • If the trellis needs to be painted, be sure the paint is completely dry before you plant the climbing hydrangea.

Dig a hole for the hydrangea 6 inches deeper than the plant's root system and 2 to 3 times as wide. Slide the hydrangea out of its container, and plant the hydrangea in the hole. Make sure the top of the hydrangea's root system is just barely under the top of the soil.

Fill the hole with water, allow the water to drain, then fill the hole with the reserved soil. Tamp the soil down with a shovel as you go to remove any air bubbles. When the hole is filled with soil, water the hydrangea again. If the soil settles, add more to bring the soil level even with the surrounding ground.

  • Dig a hole for the hydrangea 6 inches deeper than the plant's root system and 2 to 3 times as wide.
  • If the soil settles, add more to bring the soil level even with the surrounding ground.

Train the hydrangea by wrapping the vine around the trellis. This should be done every few days. When the vine grows 6 to 12 inches, pinch the tip of the vine with your fingers. This will encourage the vine to branch out. Continue to pinch the tips of each new branch after they reach 6 to 12 inches. The vine will be slower getting to the top of the trellis, but it will be much fuller.

Continue to train the vine as needed. Keep the soil moist for the first season. After that time, the roots should be established, and the climbing hydrangea should need water only during hot, dry periods.


Hydrangea quelpartensis (climbing hydrangea) | SOLD OUT


Hydrangea quelpartensis (climbing hydrangea)

A species hydrangea from Quelpart Island in Korea. Grows as self-clinging climber, very similar to H. petiolaris, though with smaller leaves and overall growth. Smothered with white scented lacecap flowers in early summer. A great plant for those difficult shady sites. Slow to establish.

Janica and Quin Amoore Woodleigh Nursery 300 Mountain Road RD 3 New Plymouth 4373
Tel 06 752 0830 | Cell 021 072 7394 (phone or text) | Email [email protected]

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14 February 2012 | Categories: Climbing hydrangeas | Tags: #b, climber, Collectors plant, Deciduous, Lacecap, Shade tolerant, White flowers | Comments Off on Hydrangea quelpartensis (climbing hydrangea) | SOLD OUT


The Climbing Hydrangea is a great consideration when choosing the best climbing garden plants. Although the climber is a slow starter, it produces beautiful white lacy flowers that are unbeatable in June.

The climbing planting requires strong support because it attaches with aerial roots. Some people also allow the flower heads to dry on the vine to create a bit of winter interest. Although the vine may require some maintenance, it’s totally worth the time investment. The vine does well in 10 – 80′ or U.S. Zones 4 – 7, to 9. The vine also thrives when established in a location with afternoon shade.


Evergreen Climbing Plants that cling to walls with aerial roots.

This group of evergreens use adventitious roots along their stems to cling to solid surfaces. Good for training up walls that have no other means of support framework.


Left is Hedera colchica Dentata Variegata with Centre of Hedera in flower late Autumn - important late pollen supply for bees and Right the hedera canariensis Gloire 'd Marengo with the reverted green foliage it is noted for.

Ivies - Hedera. - the most noted and maligned of the evergreen Climbers - yet so versatile if grown in the right place. There are many to choose from. we will mention but a few.


Hedera Goldheart

  • Hedera canariensis Gloire de Marengo, is one of the better of the large leaved Ivies, with light, silvery green foliage, being white variegated. Suitable for almost any situation, but prefers a bit of shelter. Hardy and growing to around 15ft eventually, it will need room to grow, and a good strong wall on which to climb. As with all of the Ivies.
  • Hedera colchica has two varieties worth mentioning. My favourite is Hedera colchica Dentata Aurea - or Variegata with creamy yellow variegated edges, closely followed by the Hedera colchica Paddy's Pride - also sold as Hedera colchica Sulphur Heart which probably describes it better. All three mentioned, are large leaved varieties of Ivy and are superb evergreen climbers that will need space, and strong supporting wall or fence.
  • Hedera helix Buttercup is a spectacular small-leaved variety, but the leaves change size and form at the tops of mature stems. best grown in full sun if you want it to live up to the name of Buttercup (The colour). It will be pale green in shade, but nonetheless attractive for it.
  • Hedera helix Green Ripple is another of my favourites with its bright green rippled young foliage turning dark green as the year progresses. Good against a wall and sure to please - even if just green!
  • Hedera helix Goldheartdoes just as its name suggests. As the plant gets older, then some of the shoots tend to revert back to green - with no gold heart. Cut them out. Not too easy if 10 - 15ft up a wall! The leaves change form as the plant gets more mature - being larger and losing dome of its lobed appearance.
  • There are many, many more Ivies to choose from, that will all do the job of evergreen climbing plants.

Climbing Hydrangeas. There is one to mention. The other (H. petiolaris) is not evergreen

  • Hydrangea seemannii. A climbing evergreen Hydrangea with dark green leaves not unlike the Camellia foliage - but up to 6in 15cm long! White flowers are best described as lace cap rather than mop head type hydrangea flowers. White and quite scented on warm evenings and mild mornings. It is NOT a twining plant as sometimes described, but instead, climbs and clings by means of aerial roots. Happy in shade - even a North wall like its other climbing hydrangea cousin - H. petiolaris.

Euonymus - Some of the evergreen types will climb unaided once established. best described as rambling plants, however they will climb by way of aerial roots if planted against wall or fence.

  • Euonymus fortunei Emerald Gaiety, as with the other members of the Euonymus fortunei clan, will climb if placed near a wall or fence. Most are fully hardy - even if getting a little winter leaf scorch.
  • The other of note is Euonymus fortunei Emerald 'n Gold.
  • Euonymus fortunei Silver Queen - if you can get the correctly labelled plant - is also a good evergreen climber.

Pileostegia or ( Schyzophragma viburnoides . - Both the same plant). NOT Schyzophragma integrifolium which is deciduous

  • Pileostegia viburnoides is a superb self clinging climbing evergreen for walls no matter how high, though looks its best if it can get to top of a wall and then clamber along. White flowers - not unlike the climbing Hydrangea - or some of the Viburnums - hence its name. Well worth growing - especially on a shaded wall where it can clamber up to the sun atop!

Shrubs Suitable for Wall or fence Plants. These mentioned below are not true climbing evergreens. However, they are often used to good effect when planted against walls.

Solanum crispum Glasnevin

  • Climbing Potato Vines - Solanums. For me, better described as 'semi-evergreen' though keeps enough of its leaves to be included in this group. More of a scrambling shrub that will climb its way, twining through and over a good sturdy trellis or fence. Also suitable against a wall with wired supports.
  • Solanum crispum - the Chilean Potato Vine has a superb blue variety - Solanum crispum Glasnevin, which has bright blue flowers in masses during summer and right through till late autumn. If you prefer white, then go for the Solanum jasminoides Album. Similar in other respects to the blue Glasnevin. Both will need pruning hard each spring. but will soon re-grow into a dense canopy screen.
  • Pyracantha varieties. All Pyracantha - Firethorns - are evergreen and quite hardy. They are spectacular when used as a wall or fence shrub, both for their white flowers in May/June and then the berries ranging from yellow through to darkest red depending upon variety. All are evergreen and are also quite happy to be used as shade plants.
  • Ceanothus - the Californian Lilac - is often used as a wall or fence shrub - not without good reason for they are a little on the tender side, and appreciate the cover of a warm wall or fence in the winter. Together with that, most are a bit lax in habit, and prefer to have the stability afforded by training against a wall or fence.
  • Fremontodendron californicum is best classified as semi evergreen and not a particularly good 'screen' but it is happy against wall or fence. The hairs of this plant are very itchy, so beware when pruning or training.

The evergreen climbers in our lists are hardy to varying degrees, and as evergreen climbing plants are normally seen as a permanent solution to a problematic situation, care should be taken to ensure that you choose a hardy evergreen climber for your locale and situation. This will avoid the disappointment in years to come, when your not so hardy evergreen climber is no longer evergreen, but simply a tangle of bare stems!


Watch the video: How to grow climbing hydrangea