When and how to plant bulbs to get large garlic in the summer

 When and how to plant bulbs to get large garlic in the summer

Bulbs ripening in garlic inflorescences can also be used as planting material. To do this, you need to know and follow all the landing rules.

Garden bed preparation

Fertilizer should be applied 2-3 weeks before planting. For 1 sq. m. a mixture of 250 g of chalk, 10 kg of humus, 500 g of ash and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate Spread fertilizer over the surface of the ground, dig it up, and then form the beds. Their width should be no more than 1 meter, and their height - up to 25 cm. After preparing the land, do not rush to plant garlic. If you start to do this immediately after digging, the planting material will be pulled deep into the ground while it settles, and you will get a meager harvest.

Next, you need to treat the soil with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

To prepare it, dilute 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. drug. This amount is enough to process 2 sq. land. A solution of copper sulfate will protect future plants from infection by harmful bacteria and fungal infections.

When choosing a suitable place for the bulbs, consider which vegetables used to grow in the beds.

The best precursors for garlic are cucumbers, tomatoes, squash, early cabbage, pumpkin, and legumes. After them, the earth will be saturated with the maximum amount of nutrients. But potatoes and onions will become bad predecessors, since they have many common pests and diseases with garlic. If manure has recently been applied to the site, it should also be abandoned. This will make the garlic soft and not resistant to fungal infections.

Bulb preparation

The preparation of planting material begins with sorting it by size. All large bulbs are selected for planting, the medium ones are left as a reserve material (if there are few large ones), and the small ones are not used at all (small one-toothed ones grow from them).

After sorting, the planting material must be processed.

For this, a 1% solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate is used. To prepare it, dilute 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. of the selected drug. Soak the prepared bulbs in the solution for 24 hours, and then dry them thoroughly.In order not to deal with the processing of garlic twice, immediately decide how much planting material you want to use. To do this, you need to take into account the area of ​​the prepared beds and the amount of the crop that you plan to get.

Landing time and technique

Bulbules can be planted in spring, autumn and even summer. The choice of the right time largely depends on the climatic conditions of a particular region. In the northern regions, it is better to choose a spring planting, and an autumn planting should be avoided, as plants may die during a severe cold snap.

For the middle lane, it is worth choosing the spring and summer periods.

If the winter is warm, garlic can be planted in the fall, but even in this case, some of the plants will not survive the cold, so it is recommended to thicken the planting. In the southern regions, due to the mild climate, you can choose any convenient time.

Immediately before planting, make grooves in the beds with a depth of 2.5-3 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm.

Cover the bottom of each groove with a small amount of river sand and powder with wood ash. Plant the bulbs with the bottom down (it can be distinguished by a characteristic scar) at a distance of 2 cm from each other. If they turn out to be very large, increase the gaps to 3 cm.

If you cannot determine where the bottom of the bulb is and where the top is, lay it on its side.

When done, cover the beds with peat or compost. The layer of mulch should not exceed 1.5-2 cm. This method is suitable for any time of the year. It is better to plant garlic in spring from mid-April to early May, in summer - from late July to early August (use the beds freed up after early cabbage, radish or lettuce), and in the fall - in the second half of September or early October. The exact timing will depend on the weather conditions in your area.

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All varieties are subdivided into 2 types:

  • winter, planted in the beds in the fall
  • spring - for spring planting.

There are also 2 large groups: shooters and non-shooters. In the first, instead of seeds, small one-toothed bulbs are formed - bulbs, often used for planting. Most of the arrows produce winter crops, but sometimes this feature is also found in spring plants.

Large garlic can be grown from winter varieties. However, such a crop is not stored for long - by the end of winter, the vegetable begins to deteriorate.

Summer garlic, whose bulbs are rarely large, can have a shelf life of up to two years.

Which variety to give preference, everyone decides depending on the needs: for implementation, winter varieties are planted, but for long-term use - spring varieties.

Brief description of cultivation

  1. Landing... It is necessary to plant garlic in open ground no later than the first half of April, while the site is prepared in the autumn. Also, a winter planting is suitable for garlic from mid-September to the second half of October.
  2. Illumination... The plot should be sunny or shaded.
  3. Priming... Moderately moist and nutritious loam, which should be neutral, is best suited for growing such a crop.
  4. Watering... In a dry season, garlic should be watered abundantly (10 to 12 liters of water are taken per 1 square meter of the garden). Watering stops in August.
  5. Fertilizer... When the seedlings appear, they should be fed with urea or mullein, repeated feeding is carried out at intervals of 15 days. During one season, the bushes will need to be fed only 4 times.
  6. Reproduction... Vegetative - with the help of cloves.
  7. Harmful insects... Caterpillars of garden, winter, cabbage and gamma scoops, centipedes, onion moths and flies, bears, stem nematodes, lurkers, tobacco thrips.
  8. Diseases... Gray, white and cervical rot, downy mildew, jaundice, fusarium, helminthosporium, smut, rust, viral mosaic, tracheomycosis.

Ways of planting garlic bulbs

How to grow garlic from seeds? The harvesting technology depends on when to plant the crop. When using bulbs, it is done in three ways:

  • landing in the winter
  • spring landing
  • direct method.

However, whichever method is chosen, you initially need to get airy bulbs. Special attention is paid to their preparation, since further harvesting depends on this. Strong seeds will help you reap a rich harvest that can last all winter.

Bulbs suitable for planting

Getting high-quality seed. When arrows appear on winter garlic during growth (about mid-June), you need to leave a few of the strongest, and break the rest so that they do not pull juices from the heads and do not interfere with their growth. The shooters should be left as long as required to receive the seed, given that one inflorescence contains an average of 70-80 bulbs.

Garlic seeds are cut in July, when the film covering them is just beginning to crack. Leave to dry in the shade without damaging the case. Well-dried bulbs can be stored for up to 2 years.

Landing in the winter. The autumn sowing of bulbs, previously released from the sheath, is performed in the first half of October. Seeds need to be planted according to a multi-line tape pattern to a depth of about 4 cm.When planting in winter, it often happens that one part of the bulbs freezes, and the other sticks out when the soil freezes (in early spring they are deepened back). Therefore, spring planting is recommended in colder regions.

They take care of such garlic in the usual way: they are removed when the tips of the leaves turn yellow, dried and planted in the fall according to the dates set for planting winter garlic. With this method, high yields and large teeth are obtained.

Planting in spring. The beds must be prepared in the fall. Since sowing must be done in early spring, the soil is too damp and difficult to dig up. Bubbles can be stored at room temperature by wrapping them in newspaper and folding them in a bag or box.

Bulbs that were kept warm, 30-40 days before sowing, must be freed from the cover and placed in the refrigerator. If this is not done, then the grown garlic will turn green until late autumn and the vitrification process can begin. The result is immature, small-toothed heads that are not suitable for human consumption or as seed. Chilled ones stop growing at the beginning of August, forming 1 round one-tooth head. Therefore, seed preparation plays an important role in further obtaining a rich harvest.

Harvesting is carried out when the stems begin to slope to the ground. The collected garlic is left in the shade to dry and the already dry tops are removed. One-tooth is planted in the same way as in the first method - according to the timing of winter garlic.

Non-stop growing method. This method of cultivating garlic from bulbs is carried out without replanting one-tooth and as a result gives an annual crop. To do this, the bulbs cut at the beginning of summer are slightly dried so that they are easier to disassemble and immediately planted according to the scheme for planting cloves. The one-toothed ones that have ripened in October are not dug out, but left for the winter, ensuring good snow retention.

In the spring, ordinary garlic begins to grow from them. The crop is harvested at traditional times and large multi-toothed heads are obtained. Garlic grown in this way is usually large in size.

Secret 3: crop rotation as prevention

Garlic is often affected by diseases and pests. And pathogens and pest larvae in the soil often persist. And by planting a plant in the same place for several years in a row (or planting it after crops subject to the same misfortunes), we are at great risk. It's like a lottery: either he gets sick, or the problems are bypassed. And we need it.

If we want a good harvest of healthy garlic, it should not be returned to its original place earlier than after 3-4 years... Moreover, if there is still a problem - they found the affected heads during harvesting - it would be nice to start improving the soil. Well, at least sow siderates - the same mustard, for example, or plant marigolds with calendula.

Let me remind you that garlic should not be planted after garlic, onions and potatoes. You can and should - after legumes, cucumbers, cauliflower and early white cabbage.

Watch the video: PLANTING 2200 WILD GARLIC BULBS