Purslane or dandur in the garden and in the flower bed
Purslane or dandur has been known to people since time immemorial. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans willingly consumed it as food. Hippocrates, Pliny, other doctors and scientists used this plant to treat various diseases, and in the Middle Ages it was considered "blessed" by the Arabs.
Moreover, purslane in ancient times was considered an anti-magic herb, and garlands of it around the bed were considered protection from devilish forces.
But in Europe, this plant appeared late. First, it got to France, where in the 17th century it was one of the most important vegetable crops, and from there to other European states. In the wild, purslane is found in the North Caucasus and Ukraine. But in Russia, this vegetable is little known.
In general, purslane is a very pleasant garden grass and vitamin supplement. Its thick leaves and young stems are especially good in spring salads. Young shoots of the purslane plant are boiled, seasoned with garlic, vinegar, pepper and used as a seasoning for meat and fish. Older stems are added to soups and stews, while thick stems are marinated for winter salads. For these purposes, purslane is grown in Holland and other European countries. It is used in equal proportion with sorrel for the famous French dish, soup bonne femme.
Many amateur gardeners consider purslane to be a vicious weed, but they are wrong. This is the oldest medicinal and food plant. It tastes slightly sour, smells nice, and outwardly it slightly resembles a bear's ear; only with very thick and fleshy leaves and a creeping stem branching from the base.
Purslane is both tasty and healthy
Young shoots, leaves and even flowers are eaten. Juicy purslane greens have a pleasant aroma and a slightly pungent sour taste, giving a sensation of freshness. That is why fresh purslane perfectly quenches thirst, stimulates appetite and increases vitality.
As a medicinal plant, purslane was widely used in folk medicine since the time of Hippocrates. It was believed that its seeds cleanse the body. In the canon of Avicenna's medical science, the garden purslane was mentioned 70 times. In Russian, a detailed description of the garden purslane as a remedy and food product is given in the book "The Source of Health, or the Dictionary of All Eaten Foods ...", published at Moscow University in 1800.
Young leaves and shoots of this culture are rich in easily digestible proteins, vitamins C, PP, E and carotene. And therefore, purslane salads are a great way to cure scurvy.
Purslane has long been used for diseases of the kidneys and liver. It is used as a wound healing and antiscorbutic agent. Decoctions from purslane are recommended as an antipyretic, fresh leaves are applied to bee stings. The literature provides information that purslane has a beneficial effect on flatulence and restless sleep.
Doctors prescribe it as a diuretic and anti-inflammatory agent. Recommended for the treatment of diabetes mellitus, as it lowers blood sugar levels. Purslane also increases blood pressure and increases heart rate, so it is useful for hypotensive patients, but with hypertension, this culture should not be consumed in large quantities.
And more recently, American scientists came to a rather important conclusion - purslane, in a favorable combination and quantity, contains several anti-cancer antioxidants: it is rich in ascorbic acid (vitamin C), beta-carotene (provitamin A), glutathione (a natural antioxidant capable of neutralizing some pesticides) and tocopherol (vitamin E), not to mention the fatty acids that help lower cholesterol levels. As a result, few cultures can be named that could compare with purslane in terms of the content of nutrients that help prevent the possibility of the formation of cancer cells.
How to grow a purslane
The most important thing to keep in mind is that purslane is very thermophilic - it does not tolerate even the slightest frost, it is extremely photophilous and hygrophilous. Therefore, you need to choose an ideally lit garden for it and water it almost every day, just like spinach. When watering is delayed, leaves and shoots become coarse and tasteless.
This is an annual plant, so purslane seeds are sown into the heated soil around the beginning of May, observing a spacing of 50–60 cm in the row spacing. The seeding depth of seed is 1–1.5 cm. You can sow even denser, if you then thin out and use it as the plant grows. when preparing salads.
Considering that purslane is thermophilic, it is better to sow seedlings in a greenhouse or greenhouse and then use some of the plants in early spring directly from the greenhouse, and plant some more rarely in the garden. Usually 30-day seedlings are planted in the ground.
If you want to extend the season for using fresh purslane, then repeat the sowing two or three times during the summer.
Purslane does not require any special care, except for regular watering, except for weeding and loosening. In order not to loosen, it is better to mulch the soil under the plants with sawdust - this will kill two birds with one stone: you will not need to loosen it regularly after watering, and the cut greens will be perfectly clean, which is convenient and pleasant.
Purslane quickly runs wild. The seeds in the soil remain viable for several years, and if you do not bury the plant residues deeply, then the next season your purslane will grow all over the garden. On the one hand, it's good - you won't have to sow, but on the other, you will be provided with weeding.
20-30 days after germination, the first cutting of young juicy leaves can be carried out. Then the cut is carried out as needed. The greens are cut off almost completely.
In general, 2-3 cuts are carried out per season. The leaves and tops of the stems are eaten, flowers can also be used, but the taste of purslane leaves after the beginning of flowering deteriorates slightly.
What can be cooked with purslane
Purslane is edible raw in salads, and boiled in soups and sauces. Greens can be marinated for future use, by the way, pickled purslane is already sold in stores, it is believed that such a purslane is a good seasoning for meat dishes. In this case, young shoots of the plant are boiled, seasoned with garlic, vinegar, pepper and used as a seasoning for meat and fish.
But most often, purslane is used to make salads from it - and it is simple and healthy.
As a spicy side dish, it is served with meat and fish dishes, added to sauces and savory mayonnaises. In France, Armenia, Uzbekistan, vitamin salads are prepared from purslane mixed with spicy herbs.
For 200 g of purslane: 8 g of garlic, salt, vinegar, cilantro and parsley to taste.
Sort purslane, rinse, put in salted boiling water, simmer, put on a sieve and cool. Transfer the purslane to a dish, mix with crushed garlic, pour over with vinegar, sprinkle with cilantro and parsley.
Purslane with oil
150 g purslane, 15 g butter
Before serving, put the canned purslane from the jar together with the broth into a saucepan, boil, then drain the broth through a colander, fill the purslane with oil or serve a piece of butter separately.
To marinate purslane, it is first thoroughly washed in water, changing it several times. The washed shoots are blanched in water at 90-100 ° C, thrown back on a sieve and allowed to drain off the water. One bay leaf and 1-2 cloves of garlic, cut into slices, are placed at the bottom of half-liter jars. Blanched purslane is tightly packed in jars, pre-cutting the shoots into pieces 5-8 cm long. Salt is added to the filling - 2%, vinegar essence - 2%.
Almost as rare as garden purslane, large-flowered purslane is found in Russian areas - an ornamental plant with flowers of various colors that open in sunny weather. It is much less useful in medicinal and nutritional terms, but it looks very impressive on flower beds, flower beds and on rocky hills. Decorative purslane is very beautiful in flowerpots, containers, boxes on balconies and loggias, on top of retaining walls and between slabs of paths in the garden.
As well as the garden purslane, decorative is a plant 15-20 cm high with creeping stems and juicy, fleshy, light green, and sometimes with a reddish tint leaves.
Flowers can be simple, semi-double or double, up to 3-6 cm in diameter, white, yellow, orange, pink and red, of various shades, they are located at the ends of the stems. True, they open only on clear and sunny days, but plants can bloom from June to frost.
Flower corollas come in a wide variety of colors, but terry varieties are still quite rare, but they still appear on sale, and you should look for them in stores, there are also very effective hybrids.
Decorative purslane is a thermophilic and extremely light-loving plant - it does not bloom at the slightest shading. Unlike garden purslane, it is drought-resistant - it requires only minimal watering.
And in order for the decorative purslane to please with flowers, it will have to be sown for seedlings in February, and at the same time several rules must be observed:
- sow superficially, not sprinkling with soil, but only moistening from a spray bottle and covering with glass or film; germination of decorative purslane, especially double forms, is usually not very high; it is possible to achieve high germination of seeds only if the crops are kept in a greenhouse equipped with DS lamps, a heater and a thermostat (25 ... 35 ° C) for sowing cactus seeds; in the absence of such, you can use an aquarium or just a plexiglass box covered with plastic wrap, but with the obligatory supplementary lighting of the seedlings;
- the substrate should in no case contain humus or compost from the site; ready-made soil mixtures with manure are not suitable either, because this will lead to the instant death of seedlings from fungal diseases; to increase soil fertility, you can use thermally treated organic matter;
- even before the emergence of seedlings, bowls with seeds must be kept in the light;
- seedlings appear in 7-14 days, and after a couple of weeks they are dived into pots with a diameter of 5-6 cm (transplanting a purslane is well tolerated):
- seedlings are grown with minimal watering (until the first pair of true leaves appears, the substrate should be kept moist), because the likelihood of the appearance of fungal diseases is very high; watered once a week little by little and only with a solution of biological products (Rhizoplan, Trichodermin and black yeast).
Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg
Growing peanuts in the middle lane
Greetings, dear gardeners and gardeners!
Let's talk about growing peanuts in central Russia.
Cultural forms of peanuts (Arachis) are successfully cultivated in the Kuban, Stavropol Territories, in neighboring Ukraine and in the agricultural areas of Belarus, which is already a good signal for amateur experiments with this nut-bearing representative of the Legumes family in areas of the Moscow region or the Volga region.
The cultivation of herbaceous peanuts does not require complex agricultural techniques and its garden maintenance is not very different from caring for a pumpkin family or green-spicy plantings in the beds.
The main requirement for the normal vegetation of the plant and the receipt of the expected earthen nuts from it: a sunny area, periodic hilling, mineral fertilizing and timely irrigation. Peanuts can be planted as seedlings or directly on a prepared area, freed from weed rhizomes and moderately saturated with phosphorus-potassium compounds. It should be remembered that the culture belongs to legumes and categorically does not accept active organic matter, therefore its derivatives - dung, manure, humus or mullein should be immediately excluded from subsequent dressings.
If you plan to breed a crop to get peanut butter, then it is optimal to use foreign varieties: Runner, Valencia, Spanish, Olin, Tamrun Oil or Virginia. For cultivation for the sake of earthnuts, it is recommended to take a closer look at our selection: Klinskaya, Adyg, Acorn, Gruzinsky, Stepnyak, Spanish 344, Zagatala or Bayan. Having planted the selected variety and subsequently, propagating it from the resulting crop, the culture by the third season is already quite well zoned to the climatic area of its cultivation.
Basic conditions for growing peanuts
Productive vegetation of peanuts occurs more comfortably on sandy loams, light soils and loams. In the northern regions, the leguminous crop does not ripen in the open field, but it bears fruit well between the bushes of solanaceous and pumpkin representatives in greenhouses and greenhouses. When planting on garden beds, peanuts should be covered with a garden non-woven cloth or polyethylene for the rooting period.
The basics of growing peanuts in the middle lane
Before sowing, nuts (beans) are pre-soaked for 24 hours in a wet fiber cloth and then placed under a film, buried in the soil to the width of a palm and leaving a half-meter distance in the aisle. Laying peanuts should be carried out during the spring-summer warming up of the soil at least + 15`C, when the weather is completely stabilized.
Seedling planting of peanuts involves the cultivation of grains in separate peat pots or peat tablets and then taking them out to open ridges or a greenhouse. Potted beans are placed on light-colored windowsills and watered twice a week. In the two-week developmental phase after the first germination, the seedlings are transferred to the planned cultivation area.
A peanut flower lives for one day, but the plant forms up to 200 of them per season. The pollinated and fertilized ovaries tend to the ground and begin to take root like strawberry whiskers, so the soil under the growing peanut bushes should be loose, fluffy and sufficiently moist.
By pursuing growing peanuts in the middle lane, it is advisable to carry out hilling plantings regularly, since the productivity and quality of the expected yield of nuts or the accumulation of oils in fruits, if oilseeds are grown, depend on this. The development and ripeness of ground nuts occurs directly in the soil, so drying of the upper tops is natural and novice gardeners should not worry about the suspiciously unhealthy look of the plant.
Ambient temperature also plays an important role in peanuts show nut formation and maximum fruiting at rates of +18. + 28`C. At a temperature higher or lower, the growing season of the culture slows down, or even stops altogether, until the return restoration of the degree values required for comfortable development. Insufficient irrigation leads to the fall of flowers, and an excess of water soil can lead to the formation of pathogenic fungal strains - to fungal infections.
Before the September digging of the crop, irrigation of the plantings should be stopped and the soil crust should be allowed to dry, which will provide convenience in collecting ripe pods with nuts. Usually, a herbaceous bush forms up to 50 pods containing up to 7 beans each, but this depends on the varietal form, the quality of the soil, the number of warm days in the summer months and the agricultural technology carried out by the gardener.
When digging, the bush should be turned upside down, shaken off the ground and left for several hours.The harvested beans are suspended in a dark, dry place, preferably well ventilated. Drying is carried out until the peanuts acquire a well-known appearance to everyone and after that, consume the crops for their intended purpose, not forgetting to leave a few of the highest quality pods for subsequent seed reproduction.
Garden decoration with an emphasis on trees, shrubs and conifers
The easiest and most effective way to design a garden that requires minimal maintenance is to use shrubs and trees in landscaping wherever possible. This approach means an almost complete rejection of the usual decorative compositions, perennials and annuals. A bet on large and durable "skeletal" plants, at first glance, seems like a solution not only radical, but also boring. This method of decorating a garden is not suitable for lovers of flower beds and flower beds. But it has its own charm. Monumental design allows you to create beautiful harmonious projects and lush vegetation design on your site, which does not require much effort from you and will maintain style and beauty for decades.
A plot of the garden with a predominance of shrubs and trees of coniferous and deciduous species. © Steve Parr
Do I need permission to glaze a balcony and loggia?
The glazing of the loggia and balcony, according to the judgment of the majority, is not a difficult manipulation. Many law-abiding citizens do not even think about whether it is necessary to coordinate the glazing of the balcony.
It should be noted that domestic legislation has not developed a clear regulatory framework that would regulate the glazing procedure. Those. there is no law on the glazing of balconies as a single document in which you can get an answer to all questions.
Currently, you can be guided by the following regulatory documents:
- Housing Code of the Russian Federation Material prepared for the site www.moydomik.net
- RF Code of Administrative Offenses
- RF legislation on fire safety
- Resolution "On Approval of the Rules and Norms for the Technical Operation of the Housing Stock" dated September 27, 2003 No. 170 (regulates the removal of the cornice, low tide, etc.)
- Resolution of the Government of the Russian Federation of April 25, 2012 N 390 Moscow "On fire-prevention order"
- GOST 25697-83
- GOST 26633
- SNiP 31-01-2003 (developed on the basis of the document SP 54.13330.2016)
- SNiP 2.08.01-89.
Obviously, not the entire area of an apartment and a house has the same legal status.
So, according to Art. 15 h. 4 LCD RF:
As you can see, balconies and loggias are not part of the living space. Thus, you need to decide what a balcony and a loggia imagine. SNiP 31-01-2003 contains definitions that reveal the essence of the concepts of "balcony" and "loggia".
Therefore, if they are glazed, insulated, and heated there, then they can be used as living quarters. The definition of living quarters is contained in Art. 15 h. 2 ZhK RF.
Therefore, when planning the glazing of the balcony, one must remember that in the overwhelming majority of cases, it is required to obtain permission to glaze the balcony in an apartment building.
Is the glazing of the balcony a redevelopment of the apartment?
Referring to Art. 25 ZhK RF, which contains definitions of redevelopment and reconstruction, it can be noted that:
In this way, both types of measures for making changes to the balcony require changes to the technical appearance of the living space, i.e. require permission to glaze a loggia or balcony.
Referring to another regulatory act, namely, to the clarification of the Ministry of Construction of the Russian Federation dated 04/03/2006, it can be said that:
It turns out that for glazing that does not entail a change in the purpose of the room and the destruction of the dragging bases, permission is not required. An exception is the removal of the balcony by a lot of more than 300 mm. behind a parapet or load-bearing wall.
Comparing the provisions of these two regulatory documents, it is impossible to say unequivocally whether it is necessary to take a permit for glazing a balcony and to what extent it can be reorganized (glazing, insulation, removal) without permission.
On this, the work on installing the structure is considered complete. If you are not sure about your urine and fear for the result, you can contact a specialist. It is not necessary to trust them with all the work, you can agree on a project and get important recommendations that will save you from key mistakes.
Subject to the purchase of all the necessary materials and components, a new typical shell garage will cost about 30-40 thousand rubles. This is an insignificant amount compared to building a standard garage.
A pencil case garage is not only a great opportunity to save money, but also a chance to realize your own potential in the construction field.
Flower garden options
Summer residents embody bold design ideas using scrap materials. You will no longer surprise anyone with flower beds made of plastic bottles or car tires. Beautiful flower beds are made from old furniture. A chest of drawers is a ready-made design for multi-tiered options, and a coffee table is suitable for a plant pyramid. The chair is decorated with ivy, complemented with bright marigolds and geraniums.
The used equipment will help to equip the original flower bed in the country. Large-scale compositions take up more space, but also look beautiful. Non-functioning transport is suitable for a vertical flower garden:
- a boat
For planting ornamental plants, an old umbrella is used, stuck in the ground and filled with a nutritious substrate. The device is easily moved to any corner of the site, and for the winter it is folded and hidden until spring.
To create a long-lasting flower garden, you need to make the dome and knitting needles of the structures from plywood.
The designers will convert an old wooden cart or baby carriage into mobile flower beds. To prevent stagnation of water, drainage holes must be made in the lower part, and the bottom is covered with a thick layer of broken brick. Bright ornamental plants will hide the nondescript base. The design looks good near a wicket or walkway.
Ceramic pots or wooden barrels are fine for compact blooming arrangements. The dishes are set at an angle of 30 degrees, burying the base into the ground. At the neck, soil is poured and seedlings and bushes are planted in the form of a flowing stream. Low-growing varieties (daisies, pansies) harmoniously fit into the landscape.
Decorative mulch is a good backdrop to highlight the natural beauty of plants. Properly used material will turn even two flowers into an original flower bed. They take as a basis:
- bright sand
- wood chips
- colored sawdust.
Exotic flower garden in the country they build from undemanding succulents (agave, crassula). In the spring, pots with indoor cacti can be assembled into an original design, and in the fall, the components can be brought into the room. Vases are masked with soil, sand or decorative stones. The shape of the flower bed depends on the wishes of the owner and can be easily transformed into a new solution during the season.
Mobile garden collected from old bowls... The container is placed on a dais (chair, special holders on legs) and placed anywhere on the site. A second life is also given to a metal bath bowl. The peeled walls of the object look unattractive, so designers recommend covering it with paint or bricking it.
To prevent the liquid from stagnating, you must not forget about the drainage holes.