Read the previous part. ← Classification and varieties of clematis, shelter for the winter
Fight against diseases and pests of clematis
Clematis varieties Multi Blue
Diseases. Clematis has fungal, viral, bacterial and physiological diseases.
The most dangerous clematis disease that can destroy the entire collection is withering or wiltcaused by various microscopic fungi. Most often occurs verticillary and fusarium wilting... With this disease, usually during the budding period, the shoots lose their turgor, wither and dry out. Sometimes this happens with individual shoots, but then all the rest can successively die.
The cause of wilting is the clogging of the vessels of the plant by growing fungi. The infection lives in the soil and on the lower parts of the shoots. The disease mainly affects weakened plants, overfed with nitrogen, having defects on the shoots, through which the infection enters the plant. Withering can be caused by different fungi, the same ones that cause different leaf spots. Spots control is also very important for the prevention of infectious wilting.
Infectious wilt can be confused physiological wilting, which occurs when mechanical damage to the lower part of the stems. The stems of clematis are very fragile and with careless weeding, garter, because of the strong wind, they can break, which will lead to the wilting of the shoot. So when you detect the wilting of the shoot, you must first exclude the likelihood of its breakage.
Prevention of wilting is planting healthy planting material, filling the center of tillering and the lower part of the shoots with coarse sand, shedding the soil at the base with bacterial preparations: extrasol, phytosporin and others. The introduction of trichodermine (glyocladin) into the soil at the base is effective. These measures should be started in spring and repeated in summer and autumn.
If a disease occurs, wilted shoots must be completely cut out and carefully removed from the support. The soil at the base of the bush must be shed, and the lower parts of the shoots must be sprayed with chemicals. A good effect is given by foundationol, in its absence, HOM, ordan and other copper-containing preparations. New drugs are now on the market to combat root rot, a soil-related infection.
They should also be effective in combating clematis wilting. Copper preparations are effective against all fungal diseases. By spraying the lower parts of the plants with copper and other preparations, we also prevent wilting by fighting spotting. A good effect is provided by a disinfecting spill and spraying with pesticides, followed (after 7-10 days) by treatment with biological preparations.
Pests. Of the pests, the most common are aphids and spider mites, from which fitoverm and other similar preparations help very well.
Dangerous for clematis root gall nematode... It damages the roots of the plant, on which swellings then appear - galls. The infected plant is stunted and may die if severely infested. The main thing is not to bring a nematode with planting material into the garden, destroy heavily infected plants, disinfect the soil, not plant clematis in the place of those who died from diseases.
Reproduction of clematis
There are many ways to breed clematis. Species clematis reproduce well by seeds, varietal ones - by dividing bushes, layering, cuttings, grafting. Let's consider just a few methods that are convenient for amateur breeding in the open field.
Layers - this is the rooting of shoots without separating them from the mother plant. You can root last year's lignified shoots, young shoots of the current year, lower nodes of shoots by hilling (vertical layers). The simplest and most effective, I think, is rooting last year's shoots in the spring. In autumn, a weak pruning is carried out on the plant, leaving shoots of a meter in length, regardless of the pruning group of the variety, and the plant is covered for the winter to preserve these shoots.
In the spring, after checking for the presence of live, well-developed buds, the shoot is placed in the prepared groove. The shoot is attached to the ground, for example, with wire hooks, but does not fall asleep immediately. After young shoots with a length of about 10-15 cm grow from the buds, the shoot is covered with light moisture-absorbing soil (for example, a mixture of sand and peat) so that the young shoots come out of the soil. Their tops are pinched, the soil is watered and kept moist all summer.
To improve rooting, you can cut the bark in the area of the nodes before laying the shoot and sprinkle it with root. It is useful to water the cuttings with heteroauxin, zircon and other means that improve rooting during the summer. The next spring, the layers must be separated, cut into separate parts according to the number of rooted nodes. Usually such seedlings are grown in a special bed or in pots before planting in a permanent place.
Cuttings. Clematis can be propagated by both last year's and young cuttings. Last year's cuttings can be cut from shoots preserved on plants in winter or cut in autumn and stored at a low positive temperature. Cuttings should be with one internode and two nodes.
After soaking in heteroauxin, they must be planted in loose soil, for example, in a mixture of peat and sand. Unlike most cuttings from other plants, both nodes must be buried in the soil. The upper node will be in the soil at a depth of 1 cm, the lower one - at 3 cm, i.e. the cutting is planted obliquely, only the upper tip of the shoot sticks out of the ground. Cuttings of the current year (young) are cut after the end of shoot growth, during budding.
The middle vegetative part of the shoot goes to the cuttings. Young cuttings have one node with two leaves, the area of which must be reduced by removing some of the lobes. When planting, the knot is deepened by 1-2 cm. You can also use cuttings with one knot and a "long leg". In this case, the cuttings are broken out of the node (or cut out) so that there is no shoot above the node, and the entire internode remains under the node. It is better to root such cuttings in water in a dark vessel.
The lower part of the leg should be covered with water; as it evaporates, the water should be topped up. It is better to root in a room at a constant temperature of + 20 ... + 25 ° С. As soon as roots up to 1 cm long are formed, the cuttings must be planted in the ground. All cuttings must be planted in cuttings (special beds, covered with polyethylene and shaded from direct sunlight) or covered after planting with jars, caps from plastic bottles.
They root well in diffused light in constantly moist soil and air, without overheating and hypothermia. It is advisable to water them with preparations that promote root formation during the rooting process. For the winter, the cuttings need to be covered with lutrasil on a low support (plastic boxes) so that the cuttings do not press against the ground with dense snow and do not suffocate. Before planting in a permanent place, it is advisable to grow rooted cuttings for another year in the garden or in pots.
Clematis in garden design
It is difficult to create a complete ornamental garden without clematis. But it is important to plant clematis so that they are as decorative as possible and at the same time feel good. One of the most important points is support.
They must meet many requirements: be strong and durable enough, fit well into the style of the garden and be beautiful (clematis will close them only by the end of June). They should be clematis-friendly. Clinging to them, the vine should rise up. It is necessary to take into account the height of the vine and its ability to cling to supports.
The support should be such that in the fall it is easy to remove the whips from it without breaking them. For different occasions, specially built pergolas, screens and arches, wooden, metal or plastic lattices, nets with a sufficiently large mesh and cords are convenient and beautiful. Sometimes you have to use removable supports: bamboo pins, sticks with coconut fiber.
If this variety of clematis has a height of 3-4 m, and flowering is concentrated in the upper part of the vine, an arch will be a good support, along which the whips, having risen, will descend from the other side. Having planted such clematis on both sides, we get an arch completely covered with flowers. Netting and trellis are very convenient for clematis undergoing short pruning in the fall. After trimming, unnecessary lashes remaining on the support can be removed by cutting them into pieces.
If you need to carefully remove the lashes for wintering with nets and trellises, this will not be easy. It is much easier to remove vines from cords, hairpins. For clematis planted in the rose garden, it is convenient to put removable supports that do not interfere with the shelter of roses and clematis. In any case, when planning the planting of clematis, you need to think about its support.
Consider several effective and fairly common options for using clematis in design.
Blue Light Clematis
Any vines, and especially clematis, greatly decorate the house, veranda, entrance to the house. You can put supports (gratings) along the wall at some distance from it, or stretch the mesh, cords to the wall, to the roof of the building.
It is very good if the combination of wall color and clematis flowers is thought out. Lattice walls, entwined with clematis, can fence off a patio, a seating area, a "green room". Very decorative arches with clematis or a combination of clematis and climbing roses.
A system of arches or a pergola can be made over the path leading to the house or gazebo. The gazebo, entwined with clematis and roses, looks very romantic. You can plant clematis along the fence with an east, south or west exposure. It is very important to think over view points, viewpoints, i.e. the places from which clematis will look most advantageous, taking into account the direction of lighting, the distance to the clematis, and its height.
We never consider planting plants separately from the whole garden, from its neighbors and companions. Planting companions solves many problems - this is the extension of decorativeness during the period when the main plant does not bloom, and the masking of imperfections, for example, the bare bottom of clematis, and the creation of harmonious or contrasting color combinations. It is important to respect the distance between plants and take into account the size and compatibility of the root systems.
Subject to the distances (at least 50 cm), clematis look very good in a company with roses, and options with roses of different groups are possible - climbing, scrubs, floribundas. Close enough to clematis, covering their foot, you can plant phlox, astilbe, other perennials with shallow roots, bulbous plants. Annuals are very convenient and even useful for clematis, especially marigolds and marigolds, which repel pests.
With well-chosen varieties of clematis, suitable design, following simple rules of agricultural technology, any gardener can make his garden even more beautiful.
Tatiana Popova, gardener
Photo by Vladimir Popov
Read all parts of the article "Cultivation of clematis near St. Petersburg"
• - Part 1. Features of clematis, choosing a place for planting, pruning groups
• - Part 2. Planting and clematis care calendar
• - Part 3. Classification and varieties of clematis, shelter for the winter
• - Part 4. Reproduction of clematis, diseases and pests, use in garden design
Large-flowered vyvyan pennell clematis are not propagated by seeds due to the fact that flowers grown in this way do not carry the properties and characteristics of the maternal clematis variety. They are propagated vegetatively: by layering, cuttings, dividing the bush.
An easy-to-use method that preserves the decorative appearance of the culture.
In the spring or autumn period:
- grooves are digged from the bush with a depth of 5 to 10 cm
- put side branches in them
- fix them with wire staples
- sprinkle with peat and earth on top.
A year later, the rooted layers are separated from the main flower and planted on their own.
Information: the disadvantages of the method of reproduction of clematis by layering include the risk of infection with diseases that are present in the mother bush.
Cuttings must be cut from plants that are less than 5 years old. It must have at least 1 internode and 2 developed kidneys.
Nodes with buds will not work because they usually either lack vegetative buds or are poorly developed.
Cutting scheme: make a straight cut about 1.5-2 cm above the kidney and obliquely - 4-5 cm below the last kidney. In the presence of 2 internodes, the lower 2 leaves are torn off, and the upper ones are shortened by 2 times.
Places of cuts are powdered with Heteroauxin, Succinic acid or Kornevin. After that, the cuttings are planted at an angle, deepening by 5 mm, in a container filled with pre-disinfected boiling water or a saturated solution of potassium permanganate sand and peat (taken in a ratio of 1: 1 or 2: 1).
Planting is watered, covered with glass or film. In the room, it is necessary to maintain the temperature within +20 - + 22 ° C, water the seedlings well. By the end of summer, the cuttings should have a strong root system.
The second rooting option:
- tie a few cuttings into a bunch
- place them in a dark glass container filled with soft water (preferably rainwater), with a few pieces of charcoal so that the bottom cuts barely touch the water
- place in a bright room without direct sunlight and a temperature of + 20-25 ° C.
After about 2 months, roots will appear. Transplant seedlings that have reached a height of 3 cm in separate containers.
By dividing the bush
A 5-6 year old bush is dug up in spring or autumn. Neatly divided into several parts, each planted separately.
Clematis vivian pennel description and photo
Clematis propagated in this way begins to bloom very quickly. However, there is a risk of severely damaging the root system when digging.
Recommendation: if the bush is too large and difficult to dig out, dig it in only on one side and use a shovel to separate the flower share.
Use in landscape design
Since the terry rosehip is a hybrid of roses and wild shrubs, it is widely used in landscape design. After all, the shrub is close in beauty to the rose, but unpretentious to the growing conditions. The plant takes root well in any garden area. Most often, bushes are used to create a hedge. Luxurious foliage, delicate flowers will become a decorative wall on the border of the suburban areas.
Rosehip is actively used as an introduction to large landscape ensembles, rabatki. Compositions of different varieties of terry rose hips will be a wonderful background for a flower garden. They play the role of the main element in compositions on difficult terrain - rock gardens, rockeries.
Combining with other types of shrubs in mixed plantings, hedges, rose hips are a connector of scattered plants among themselves.
He looks great as a loner on a green lawn. Low species of rose hips are grown in tubs, large pots. Sufficient air circulation and bright lighting will be important for them. They look good in the frame of verbena, abelia.
In a landscape garden, rose hips are perfectly combined with plantings of lavender, geraniums, bells. The rustic style of the garden will be complemented by terry shrubs along with phloxes, asters. The selection of a rosehip variety for the garden, the choice of a place for it depends on the design style of the site, the taste of the owner.
More information can be found in the video:
Description of the variety
Clematis solidarnosc is a compact perennial with climbing shoots. In height, it reaches no more than 1.6 m. In a young state, the branches are painted in a light green shade, as they grow, they acquire a tree-like structure.
The vegetative shoots are densely covered with smooth, light green leaf plates. The leaves are medium in size. Complex in shape, they consist of 3 segments with a jagged edge.
The plant belongs to the number of dioecious plants, in the flowering stage it forms large buds of rich red color with a paler stripe in the middle. There are also specimens with small light specks. The surface of the petals is velvety with a characteristic oblong ribbing.
The root system is fibrous, and therefore it is allowed to periodically transplant the vine, which allows you to observe crop rotation and change the design of the garden.
Kalina Buldenezh: snow-white garden decoration
Main page »Kalina Buldenezh: snow-white decoration of the garden
Kalina Buldenezh is an ornamental flowering shrub that adorns the garden with snow-white balls throughout the first summer month. The name of the plant is translated from French as "snow globe".
When planting this variety, it is worth considering its moderate speed of plant development and a suspension in growth upon reaching adulthood. In the future, the shrub begins to fill the side space.
For the cultivation of lianas, the installation of a support is a necessary requirement. When the trellis should be comfortable enough for the subsequent removal of the lashes from it.
A prerequisite for planting a plant is the absence of the threat of frost. The optimal timing for the procedure, taking into account the use of seedlings with an open root system, is considered April and the first days of May, while the early growing season of the flower should be taken into account. With a deviation from the norm, the life cycle of the culture changes, which has a detrimental effect on its survival rate.
There are no such restrictions for seedlings with closed roots; they can be planted not only in spring, but also in autumn or summer.
It is not recommended to place plants close to buildings; in such conditions, excessive heating of the green mass is observed, and the gardener is faced with the problem of removing the vine from the support. When placing, it is necessary to take into account the light-requiring of the shrub, while the root system should be in shade.
Clematis solidarity description
Areas exposed to drafts will not work. Especially young plants are injured by sudden gusts of wind. A desirable condition for comfortable growth is deep groundwater. If the garden is located in a low area, care should be taken to establish a moisture drainage system.
An important role for the culture is played by the composition of the soil mixture, for which they combine:
- river sand - 3 kg
- vegetable humus - 5 kg
- peat soil - 3 kg
- wood ash - 200 g
- nitrophosphate - 200 g
- superphosphate - 100 g.
The planting hole is prepared 10 days before the appointed date - a drainage layer is laid out on the bottom and half covered with a substrate.
Before planting, the seedlings are recommended to be kept at a temperature of 0-2 ° C, in case of bud germination, they should be transferred to a cooler room with good lighting. This will prevent the plant from pulling out.
The root system is first treated with an antifungal agent, then kept in a growth biostimulator.
- They dig a hole 0.6 * 0.6 * 0.6 m in size, lay a drainage pillow 10 cm thick at the bottom.When several plants are planted, a step of 0.7 m is maintained.
- Part of the prepared substrate is poured, a seedling is placed, the roots are carefully straightened. At the same time, a support is installed - if the trellis is placed at the end of the procedure, the risk of damaging the rhizome of the culture increases.
- The remaining space of the hole is filled, deepening the neck by 7 cm.When an adult plant is moved to a new place, the depth is increased to 15 cm.
- The topsoil is compacted. Watered with organic matter.
This variety, like all Clematis, loves moisture. However, excessive waterlogging should not be allowed. Regular overdrying of the upper layer will also adversely affect development.
Clematis solidarity photo
Adult specimens are watered every 2 weeks with plenty of water, young ones - as needed, taking into account precipitation. In a particularly dry summer, irrigation is allowed up to 4 times in 7 days.
Solidarity needs regular feeding, which is carried out several times per season:
- in early spring (early May) - with urea
- at the budding stage - Agricola-7
- at the end of flowering - organic fertilizers
- in the fall - superphosphate and preparations with potassium included in the composition.
Additionally, in the spring, the plant is watered with milk of lime (200 g of lime per 10 l of water) to stimulate the growing season.
Mulching and loosening
Loosening the soil near the bushes allows you to normalize the aeration of the substrate and prevent mold. Also, during the procedure, which should be carried out after moistening the surface, weeds are removed, which inhibits the growth of the culture.
Clematis is mulched in order to minimize moisture evaporation and the appearance of weeds, as well as protect the root system from overheating and freezing in the cold season.
The variety of clematis Solidarity belongs to the 2nd pruning group, however, it is recommended to shorten all branches to the lower 3 pairs of buds in the first year after planting. Thanks to such a correction, the plant will grow stronger and take root more quickly, and in the future it will bush better.
Variety of clematis solidarity
A haircut is carried out in the fall after the completion of the leaf fall and the removal of the liana from the support:
- Perennial shoots are stopped by 15-20 cm.
- Underdeveloped segments are cut off.
- Eliminate that part of the crown that has dried up over the summer.
Joint planting: clematis and roses
The classic partners of clematis are roses. For planting with roses, groups such as the large-flowered late-flowering Jacquemann hybrids, the Viticella group and the undersized Integrifolia group are suitable. On the arch in a pair of climbing roses, it is better to choose varieties of the Jacqueman or Viticella group, and for spray roses, clematis of the integrifolia group will be an ideal partner. Roses and clematis can be matched, or you can diversify with contrasting combinations, such as orange and purple.