Free fruit tree cuttings

Free fruit tree cuttings

First free yourself from the idea that fruit trees need to be in a separate part of the garden to ornamentals. This belief in 'appropriateness' in planting is comparatively recent; once upon a time cottage gardens simply grew whatever was useful or beautiful together in one area. Whether you have a small, inner-city courtyard or even just a balcony, there is always room for at least one fruit tree. To make the choice easier I've narrowed it down to a list of attractive, hardy, relatively pest-free, delicious fruits.

  • How to take fruit bush cuttings
  • Creating an Orchard
  • How to take cuttings in 6 easy steps
  • Fruit trees: feeding and mulching
  • Seized fruit tree cutting imports stoush: Nursery owners meet with MPI
  • Grow More Soft Fruit By Taking Hardwood Cuttings
  • Arbor Day Celebration
WATCH RELATED VIDEO: FREE Fruit Plants. 2 EASY Ways To Take Cuttings Of Currant Bushes

How to take fruit bush cuttings

In our latest how-to series we look at planting your own mini orchard for added colour, interest and tasty produce in the garden. The addition of an ornamental fruit tree in your garden not only promises a delicious harvest but a riot of colour when the trees are laden with beautiful blossom in spring. Extending beyond the veggie patch, fruit trees provide a good source of shade and privacy and create a focal point in the garden in addition to providing sweet fruits to eat.

Some fruit trees, such as peach, apricot and nectarine, are self-fertile, so they fruit even if planted alone. However, fruit trees such as apple, pear, plum and cherry require a cross-pollinator to bear fruit, so more than one tree needs to be planted. Growing fruit trees can seem daunting, as they do require some pruning and care, however it is likely to be far less than you expect. In fact, you can grow fruit trees with minimal effort and pruning, but, if you want to be rewarded with a more bountiful crop, then some regular maintenance will be in order.

Fruit trees need to be planted in a sunny spot that receives at least six hours of sunlight per day year-round, with enough room to grow in — space them away from other plants and surfaces, and well-drained soil.

Dig a hole larger than you need to help the roots spread out when planting. When choosing a fruit tree, ensure you find out if it needs a pollinator. There are five common climatic zones in Australia: cool, temperate, sub-tropical, tropical and arid, and choosing the best fruit trees for the climate where you are will give you the greatest chance of success. Consider whether your garden is prone to frost, how cold it gets — or how hot and humid, and how wet the climate is. The likes of apple and peach trees grow well in cool and temperate climates, whilst citrus and more exotic fruit trees will thrive in arid, tropical and sub-tropical climates.

Many fruit trees will come with guidance on chill hours, which will help you select the best varieties for the climate where you live. Low-chill trees are well suited to warm climates, whilst high-chill trees are ideal for the colder regions of Australia. Bare-rooted fruit trees can be purchased in winter when they are dormant, making them cheaper to buy and faster to establish than a potted tree.

Create a small mound of soil in your ready-dug hole and lower the root ball of your tree on top of it. Spread out the roots and ensure the graft line at the base of the trunk is higher than the level of the ground, and that no roots are exposed. Start filling in the hole, firming soil carefully over the roots. Once planted your fruit trees will need to be staked to support them as they grow.

Hammer a stake into the soil on either side of the tree, being careful to avoid the roots and allowing around 30cm gap from the trunk. Loosely tie the tree in place and water well. Pruning, careful watering, pest control and fertilising are the four main elements of caring for your new fruit trees. It will require less watering as time goes on and hardly a drop when dormant, so do your research and get to know what your trees need and when.

A yearly application of fertiliser is best given at the end of winter or in early spring, and the type of fertiliser will depend on the variety of fruit tree you are growing, so be sure to check with your local nursery for advice. Pests such as fruit fly can be a problem when growing fruit trees, resulting in spoiled fruit.

Fruit fly traps and organic pest control solutions can be effective, as can removing any rotting fruit that may attract them. Pruning in winter, when the tree has dropped its leaves, makes things a little easier. Start by clearing any dead, damaged or diseased wood and any old fruit.

If there are any suckers sprouting from the trunk, remove them, as well as any watersprouts growing from the main branches. Prune small branches right back to the larger branch they are growing from and thin out any competing branches and branches growing downwards or crossing over one another. Know when to stop — once you have evenly spaced, healthy-looking branches with plenty of room for light and air to reach the canopy, you can take a step back.

Keep checking your progress as you go until an open framework is achieved. Finally, prune back the outermost growth of the tree, cutting part way into each branch, close to the bud. To know when the fruit is ready for picking can be tricky, as how quickly the fruit ripens can depend on the climate and weather, but testing one or two for taste and texture will help you decide.

If good fruit begins to fall off naturally then it is likely ready for harvest. Most fruit will taste sweet and feel firm when picked, with the exception of plums, apricots, peaches and nectarines that will feel soft. Most fruit will gently twist off the branch with the stalk intact, whilst cherries should be cut to keep the stalk and flesh together — our Handy Snippers are perfect for this.

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Creating an Orchard

As well as fruit bushes, you can also take hardwood cuttings in winter from lots of other woody perennials, including roses , viburnums , dogwoods , willow and forsythia. Select only one or two stems from each bush. Reduce the cutting down to cm long, trimming just below a bud at the base, and above a bud at the top. Remove soft growth at the stem tip. With redcurrants, whitecurrants and gooseberries, remove all but the top three or four buds to create a clear stem. Leave all the buds on blackcurrants.

When moving plants into Arizona, indoor house plants that are free of insects roots, decorative plant material, flowers, fruit pits or seeds, cuttings.

How to take cuttings in 6 easy steps

Note: this is the revised chapter on plant propagation from the original Fruits and Berries book that, due to space considerations, was unable to be included in the Fruit Gardener's Bible. I once saw a classified ad in the newspaper asking if anyone had a Yellow Transparent apple tree. Someone wanted permission to dig up a sprout from it to start her own tree. Beginning growers are sometimes puzzled about how fruit trees get their start. Some plant seeds fom their favorite apples, expecting they will grow into trees that will bear fruit exactly like the original apples. Others, like the woman in the ad, believe they can dig up the suckers that grow around the trunks of larger trees in the orchard, and eventually these will grow into trees that produce the same kind of fruit. Both are likely to be disappointed.

Fruit trees: feeding and mulching

Make a donation. Feeding fruit trees promotes healthy growth, giving the plant all the nutrients it needs to produce the best possible crop. Mulching helps conserve moisture in summer and prevents weeds from growing. All fruit trees , including apples , pears , peaches, plums and cherries.

A few months ago my brother and I gave our annual gift to our mom, which is another tree for her small orchard.

Seized fruit tree cutting imports stoush: Nursery owners meet with MPI

Managing director of Elite Trees Chris Latimer has over 15 years of experience, both in forestry and the arboriculture industry. Chris is originally from Geraldine where there are plenty of native bush nearby and where the hills are covered in pine forests. This is where the love for trees came from and saw Chris start his career within the forestry industry. After 5 years working in the forests of Geraldine, Chris moved his career to Christchurch and entered into the arboriculture industry. Chris has spent over 10 years working for a residential tree company within Christchurch with the last 4 years managing a team of up to 12 arborists.

Grow More Soft Fruit By Taking Hardwood Cuttings

Jump to navigation. One of the most satisfying ways of growing fruit tree is by propagating your own. Cuttings, air layering, or seeds, from any tree in your backyard, farm or smallholding, can be great for starting fruit bushes. When starting this way, it is absolutely free and has endless possibilities. Propagating by cuttings can be one of the fastest ways of starting a new fruit tree. For example, apple varieties can root in a month and the cuttings could already resemble small trees. However, some fruit tree cuttings need to then be grafted onto a rootstock, something we won't be covering here.

Grafting or pre-grafted trees can let you grow multiple varieties of Cost: $5 admission includes free fruit tree cuttings, scions.

Arbor Day Celebration

If you cannot find an answer below to a question you may have then please email us at info irishseedsavers. On receiving bare-rooted trees, unpack and inspect the trees. Ensure their roots are not allowed to dry out and that they are stored in a cool environment — eg: in an open shed.

RELATED VIDEO: How to Build a System to Easily Root Fruit Tree Cuttings

Growing fruit is really exciting, but the cost of buying new plants is not. Here are 6 fruit crops to propagate for free from cuttings. This page may contain affiliate links. Please read my disclosure for more info. Everyone loves the instant gratification of buying established plants at the nursery and being able to harvest fruit relatively quickly.

His perspective was: why would you buy trees and spend money when you can propagate them yourself? Growing your own rootstock and grafting is a far better idea than buying, even if you need 1, trees.

Commercially grown citrus trees are usually composed of two parts: 1 the scion, which is the aboveground portion of the tree that produces the fruit, and 2 the rootstock, which comprises the root system and the lower portion of the trunk. The scion and rootstock are joined via the process of grafting. The most common method of grafting in citrus is budding, in which a single bud from the desired scion variety is inserted into an incision below the bark of the rootstock. After a period of healing, the bud begins to grow and the rootstock stem above the bud union is removed. The result is a citrus plant composed of two genetically different organisms.

In our latest how-to series we look at planting your own mini orchard for added colour, interest and tasty produce in the garden. The addition of an ornamental fruit tree in your garden not only promises a delicious harvest but a riot of colour when the trees are laden with beautiful blossom in spring. Extending beyond the veggie patch, fruit trees provide a good source of shade and privacy and create a focal point in the garden in addition to providing sweet fruits to eat.